URGENT HELP NEEDED (blinking cel)
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by qbmurderer13,Dec 13 2007, 01:33 AM
At the time it was my only option... And im curious because im looking through the lists of blinking cel and some of them are things like fuel system too lean or too rich, i understand im not suppose to drive it, but how can i at least know what it is, im pretty sure it would be ok to drive a car thats 'too rich' or something else, looking at this btw http://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/dtc/index.htm
Let me explain what has happened to your car, so you will understand why YOU MUST NOT START IT AGAIN. When you missed the shift, you created a condition known as a mechanical over rev. The engine was turning so fast that the valve springs were unable to close the valves quickly enough, a condition known as valve float. When valve float is bad enough, the pistons come up and hit the valve, bending the valve, and usually putting a little nick in the piston crown. Once the valve is bent, it cannot open and close any longer, so it stays open. At this point you got a blinking CEL, beause at least one cylinder quit firing, due to the fact that it had lost all compression. Also, since the valve or valves are now bent and stuck partly or fully open, they continue to contact the pistons. Valve heads can break off and fall down into the cylinder, and the pieces of the piston that are being gouged out by the impacts with the valve can get down into the piston rings, eating up the cylinder walls. IF you shut the car off IMMEDIATELY after the over rev, as soon as the CEL flashes, you have a good chance of limiting the damage to the valves, but every time the engine turns over now, it is doing more damage to the valves and pistons, and it won't be long before the pistons, rings, and block, are shot. Could be as little as a few minutes of driving time, or could take a lot longer, but it IS happening, every time the motor turns over even one revolution.
The more you run the car the more this is going to cost you. You were probably at $3,000.00 when the CEL first flashed, and you can get to $10,000.00 in a hurry, so here's the real choice you have to make. $3,000 worth of damage, or a few more miles of driving and three or more times that much damage.
Your call, but you DO have a choice.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by qbmurderer13,Dec 13 2007, 01:49 AM
is there any other way for me to find out what it can be? i cant seem to find a paper clip in the whole house to try and jump the pin. any ideas what it can be?
You can read my post above. ^^^ That is EXACTLY what's wrong with your car. I promise.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by qbmurderer13,Dec 12 2007, 10:33 PM
At the time it was my only option... And im curious because im looking through the lists of blinking cel and some of them are things like fuel system too lean or too rich, i understand im not suppose to drive it, but how can i at least know what it is, im pretty sure it would be ok to drive a car thats 'too rich' or something else, looking at this btw http://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/dtc/index.htm
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From: I live in an ER
Originally Posted by RED MX5,Dec 13 2007, 02:08 AM
PLEASE LISTEN TO ME. THERE IS NO DOUBT ABOUT WHAT I AM TELLING YOU.
Let me explain what has happened to your car, so you will understand why YOU MUST NOT START IT AGAIN. When you missed the shift, you created a condition known as a mechanical over rev. The engine was turning so fast that the valve springs were unable to close the valves quickly enough, a condition known as valve float. When valve float is bad enough, the pistons come up and hit the valve, bending the valve, and usually putting a little nick in the piston crown. Once the valve is bent, it cannot open and close any longer, so it stays open. At this point you got a blinking CEL, beause at least one cylinder quit firing, due to the fact that it had lost all compression. Also, since the valve or valves are now bent and stuck partly or fully open, they continue to contact the pistons. Valve heads can break off and fall down into the cylinder, and the pieces of the piston that are being gouged out by the impacts with the valve can get down into the piston rings, eating up the cylinder walls. IF you shut the car off IMMEDIATELY after the over rev, as soon as the CEL flashes, you have a good chance of limiting the damage to the valves, but every time the engine turns over now, it is doing more damage to the valves and pistons, and it won't be long before the pistons, rings, and block, are shot. Could be as little as a few minutes of driving time, or could take a lot longer, but it IS happening, every time the motor turns over even one revolution.
The more you run the car the more this is going to cost you. You were probably at $3,000.00 when the CEL first flashed, and you can get to $10,000.00 in a hurry, so here's the real choice you have to make. $3,000 worth of damage, or a few more miles of driving and three or more times that much damage.
Your call, but you DO have a choice.
Let me explain what has happened to your car, so you will understand why YOU MUST NOT START IT AGAIN. When you missed the shift, you created a condition known as a mechanical over rev. The engine was turning so fast that the valve springs were unable to close the valves quickly enough, a condition known as valve float. When valve float is bad enough, the pistons come up and hit the valve, bending the valve, and usually putting a little nick in the piston crown. Once the valve is bent, it cannot open and close any longer, so it stays open. At this point you got a blinking CEL, beause at least one cylinder quit firing, due to the fact that it had lost all compression. Also, since the valve or valves are now bent and stuck partly or fully open, they continue to contact the pistons. Valve heads can break off and fall down into the cylinder, and the pieces of the piston that are being gouged out by the impacts with the valve can get down into the piston rings, eating up the cylinder walls. IF you shut the car off IMMEDIATELY after the over rev, as soon as the CEL flashes, you have a good chance of limiting the damage to the valves, but every time the engine turns over now, it is doing more damage to the valves and pistons, and it won't be long before the pistons, rings, and block, are shot. Could be as little as a few minutes of driving time, or could take a lot longer, but it IS happening, every time the motor turns over even one revolution.
The more you run the car the more this is going to cost you. You were probably at $3,000.00 when the CEL first flashed, and you can get to $10,000.00 in a hurry, so here's the real choice you have to make. $3,000 worth of damage, or a few more miles of driving and three or more times that much damage.
Your call, but you DO have a choice.
But the only question I have....is how the damages can get to 10g?
Sorry for your loss OP - I hope it's nothing major....and to have the best chances at this I would listen to the advice given.
BTW send Chickenknob a PM he was parting out an S2K a while ago he had a motor for sale for a really good deal, he is a good guy. Maybe he still has it.
GL
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Originally Posted by Ruprecht,Dec 12 2007, 10:48 PM
Oy Vey!
If he has to get a new engine anyhow, why not drive it while it drives.
What kinda damage can he do to the new engine by driving the blinking CEL engine?
If he has to get a new engine anyhow, why not drive it while it drives.
What kinda damage can he do to the new engine by driving the blinking CEL engine?
sounds like bent valves so.. its misfiring and the cat cant keep up by burning off the unburnt gas in the engine .. the cats gonna get saturated with gas and gonna need a new cat with that new engine
