VTEC????
Break in period means no VTEC until atleast 600 miles! So, don't VTEC! Trust me, it's worth the wait...technically speaking VTEC will work with 1 mile on the car but if you want your engine to last and run optimally I would follow your Owner's Manual, that I know you read, and not VTEC. just my 2 cents!
The ECU disables the VTEC solenoids until you hit 1,000.0 km or 621.5 miles. If you thought you hit it by revving to 9,000 rpm, that is because the ECU displays a falsely inflated RPM on the tachometer until 1000.0 km. The tach reads high by 50% until 1000.0 km.
Be careful not to turn the car off at the exact instant you cross 1000.0 km (621.5 miles) or your VTEC will never work. That is because there is a bug in the OS (Windows 2000 Professional) which mishandles double precision division calculations.
The nice thing about the internet is that you can always get an answer to any question, no matter how stupid.
Be careful not to turn the car off at the exact instant you cross 1000.0 km (621.5 miles) or your VTEC will never work. That is because there is a bug in the OS (Windows 2000 Professional) which mishandles double precision division calculations.
The nice thing about the internet is that you can always get an answer to any question, no matter how stupid.
I do not have a S2000 yet
but I have a different point of view on the matter. Where I come from we drive the cars really hard usually on the limits. What I saw form my dad and other people around me (including me) that we push the car to its max even in the break-in period. I would not want the car to settle with a mild character. I am not telling you that I am doin it all the time but everyonece in a while I do it even in the break in. I think the risk of an internal part failing is really really low.
The difference I see with this is that eith the exact same otions, weight and etc. same cars perform differently, the one that is break-in more aggresively will be faster. (At least this is my experince so far)
I also think that any problem that would come out will be the problems that encounter faster than it would come out otherwise but they would come out anyways. I prefer to encounter the problem sooner than later.
Well maybe we should make a controlled experiment when I get the car.
but I have a different point of view on the matter. Where I come from we drive the cars really hard usually on the limits. What I saw form my dad and other people around me (including me) that we push the car to its max even in the break-in period. I would not want the car to settle with a mild character. I am not telling you that I am doin it all the time but everyonece in a while I do it even in the break in. I think the risk of an internal part failing is really really low. The difference I see with this is that eith the exact same otions, weight and etc. same cars perform differently, the one that is break-in more aggresively will be faster. (At least this is my experince so far)
I also think that any problem that would come out will be the problems that encounter faster than it would come out otherwise but they would come out anyways. I prefer to encounter the problem sooner than later.
Well maybe we should make a controlled experiment when I get the car.
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QueRam, get your car and drive the pi$$ out of it right out of the box. I'm sure the data gleaned from this experiment would be valuable to the new owners on this forum. Perhaps the advisory in the owner's manual as well as the experience of the numerous owners on this board is totally erroneous. Good Luck!
See.. this is one of the things ive never understood in regards to break in. If it were so important, they could readily enough put some code into the ecu to induce an artificial, break-in redline and even slowly raise the redline so that the cars is broken in more in accordance to what they require. Hell, the already do this to some extent with less than 3 bars on the temp gauge. And the m5, IIRC, changes the redline as it warms up.
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