Black7564

I wasn't too insulted. Firmly believe in RTFM. My bad, I did not consult the owners manual, just the Helm's service manual. In fact, I had made mention of that in the original post as I was typing but deleted that line to see if there was a better choice. I thumbed thru a good portion of that manual. I'm a firm believer in an index for everything, too bad the Helm people did not agree...

Larry, You get my email on the details of the proposed route? Make sense? I hope the weather holds out. Want to drop the top and hear the HKS...

Later,

Bob

Skarv

Black, Laster:

You are right... I'm too sensitive on this.

As for the smiley, I don't remember it being there originally. I think I would have noticed it.

Anyway, all I'm advocating is civility. I'm plenty thick skinned or I would have shut up. What I'm trying to do is look out for new members who will unlikely be as jaded.

Regards to all, Tom included.

Dan

TFota

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Skarv:
[B]As for the smiley, I don't remember it being there originally.

redone

For what it's worth, here's how I put my baby "up" for the winter months!

First of all, I made two-two inch thick blocks, cut on 30 degree angle, drove front wheels up on them.

Second, placed hydraulic floor jack under center of front as per shop manual (big one)that I bought from my Honda Dealer. The reason for this is to achieve enough clearance under front end to get the jack under...

Third, I jacked up the car (front end), until I could fit home-made wooden (oak) blocks under chassis jacking points behind front wheels, gently lowered, removed jack.

Fourth, jacked up the rear (under differential)high enough to place blocks under rear chassis jacking points (just in front of rear wheels).

I wanted the weight off for storage. Took all of half an hour or less. I suggest the blocks are cut large enough (build up by gluing), with the top one having a groove to fit the jacking point on chassis. Check under the car and you will see what I mean.

I also placed padding (rag) between the jack and car, and blocks and car to prevent any scuffing...

I'm sure you can use jack stands instead of wooden blocks, however I don't want to tie mine up for so long.

Good luck!

TFota

redone, did you remove your wheels?

I had a friend who used to store his 'Vette every winter. He would put it up on blocks, and then remove the wheels and tires to take the weight off the suspension.

I would think that with the weight of the wheels and tires hanging from the springs all winter plus the shocks being extended that you might find your car sitting a little higher come spring time.

Skarv

Another issue with "unloading the suspension for the winter is that your shocks sit fully extended with the stainless shaft exposed to humid air. This can cause a thin coat of rust on the shafts that will kill the seals come spring when the car is lowered again.

It is really a catch-22 situation. A simple solution are these things called car casters... where you replace the tires with these metal plates with casters. Even allows you to roll the car into a corner. I think the cost around $200 as set. But who knows if it is worth the trouble.

It think it would be better to wait for the 2 or 3 clear days in the winter, and just drive the car around the block.

Dan

TFota

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Skarv:
[B]A simple solution are these things called car casters... where you replace the tires with these metal plates with casters.

Prolene

The car casters are placed under the tires. They allow car to be rolled any direction. They might help in preventing flat spotting since they place tire supports over a larger area than the floor does.

Skarv

Lest there be any confusion... I'm talking about a thing that replaces the tire altogether. If you use the thing I remember from griots, you will still flat-spot your tires. These are triangular plates of steel that bolt to your lugs with the lugnuts, in place of the wheels. They have casters on the bottom.

The objective in their case, is to unload the tire, keep the suspension loaded, and make the car rollable laterally as well as longitudinally. They are usually advertized in Hemmings since they are very useful for restorers.

Dan.