Problem: Lock\Unlock working intermittently, panic does not work, option/trunk does not work

I have already tried the following: Replace remote battery, Re-program remote, had car battery tested at Checker, replaced fuse, cycled between silent and beep mode numerous times (as mentioned in one of the threads I searched for)

Notes: The alarm itself will arm and disarm everytime, Driver's door locks/unlocks 80% of the time, passenger door locks/unlocks 20% of the time on the second unlock push. Noticed that the LED on the remote lights when either lock or unlock is pressed, but not at all when panic or option buttons pressed.

I finally made some progress in troubleshooting tonight when I sat inside of the car and tried to cycle the locks. Here is what happened: First press of the lock button locked the drivers door but not the pass, pressed the unlock and I could hear the locks trying to cycle but not moving, with each additional button press I could hear that the actuators were getting weaker and weaker until they finally stopped trying and I could just hear a clicking noise coming from the dash area.

Conclusion: There is not enough juice to actuate the locks.

Questions1) Is there some kind of capacitor that stores power for the locks? (my battery seems fine, starts the car without any problems) (2) Should the panic and option buttons activate the LED on the remote?

BTW this is a MY2000, any ideas will be greatly appreciated!

 

Anybody? Can someone atleast tell me if the remotes LED is supposed to light up when the panic/option buttons are pressed?

 

you may get better luck in the electronics section.

 

I believe you need to hold the panic button for a second or so and yes you should get a light for ALL buttons. I think lock unlock LED comes on right away....trunk takes maybe a second, and panic might take 2 seconds.

 

just checked right now, they dont light up

 

This happens with my aftermarket alarm when it's cold. Try replacing the battery, I replaced mine and didn't have it happen but maybe once or twice this winter (it's Southern California, so it's not even really that cold).

 

Thanks guys, I got the trunk and panic working now. Still have the issue of the actuators not having enough power... strange.

 

The factory alarm FOBs are pieces of shit IMO. Mine are flaky too, and don't work at long distances whatsoever. The non alarm FOBs work 100 times better, and 10 times farther. strange

 

Thats your problem there, your actuators are going out. 1: Replace them. 2: Get new remotes, the solder or the circut board is going bad.

 

I saw a thread a while ago about this. The guy moved the antenna out from under the seat (IIRC), and the fob worked from much further.