my cars idles to lows. when i takes it out of gear a coast my rpms drops again? I tried engine cleaner to help stall not work. somebody helps me please...

I agree with the poster that said you should checked your retainers.

 

I just adjusted the valves on my AP2 today with 25k miles. It was fairly straight forward. Took me about 3 1/2 hours, but I ran into technical difficulties with one of the damn hex bolts that holds the coil cover on. For some reason, mine were on VERY tight and I wound up stripping one of the bolts (the last one I had to get out actually ). So, I wound up carefully drilling the head off the bolt and now I need to buy a few spares. After yelling a few obscenities in my garage, everything was cool again and I was on my way.

All of my intake valves were pretty loose. I could actually get a .010-.011 feeler into a few of them. So I adjusted them all down to a snug .008. Most of the exhaust valves were fine and snug around .010. There were a few that were a bit loose, so I snugged them up to a .010 also.

After getting everything back together and taking it for a drive, the valvetrain is noticably quieter at idle and the car does feel a bit more peppy. Could be my imagination trying to justify spending 3+ hours baking in the 90 degree sun, but I think I picked up a few ponies from it. I could probably do it again in about 2 hours or less. The #4 valves a PITA to get to and your back won't feel to good for the rest of the day, but I'd say it's worth it.

It was nice to see the inner workings of this masterpiece of an engine. Everything was nice and clean. No sludge buildup anywhere. My Syntec is doing its job.

 

Thanks for the warning When I do my valves, (I only have 19k miles on my car) I will place a fender cover on the fender so I can lean on it a little bit to help support my weight without scratching the paint.

 

Yes, good idea. I draped two big towels over both sides of the car.

The vertical heatshield next to the head is also a PITA. Be careful or it will slice you up (I have a few battle scars from it). It does have a rolled edge, but if you catch it just right, it'll cut you. I guess you could take it off, but I didn't want to deal with that since the last bolt for it is a PITA to get to.

I didn't have a box wrench that could clear everything in that tight space, so I used an extended 10mm socket which allowed me to hold the lock nut snug by hand while I stuck a screw driver down through it to get to the adjustment screw. This worked like a charm. After adjusting, I then torqued them up. It says 14 ft-lb, but you'd be suprised at how tight these things are from factory, most likely from all the heating cycles they've gone through since they were originally torqued.