S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Air Pump and CEL

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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 07:24 PM
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Default Air Pump and CEL

Well I just got my car two weeks ago and I've had problems with it...First, my CEL came on for IACV and the dealer replaced that along with the ECU, cus they believed that it was a faulty computer...Well i finally got the car back this past tuesday and it ran WONDERFULLY...it pulled nicely and the VTEC crossover was very noticeable...So i drove to my g/f's house (about 25 miles away) and it run great...I stay for about 2 hours and come out to drive home and BAM, CEL comes on...

So i drive home baby-ing the car and pull the code with my handy paperclip...I get six long flashes, jump on my computer and find out its the Air Pump...So i reset the ECU and CEL goes away, and I drive around for about 15 minutes and car still runs great...So the next morning, I start the car and get the same CEL...I reset the ECU again and the car runs great all day...So this morning, the CEL was on AGAIN, and again, I reset the ECU and car runs great all day...I just cant stand staring at the CEL...can anyone help me?

I was thinking that the dealership didnt program the new ECU correctly?
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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You shouldn't keep resetting the ECU. That CEL is trying to tell you something. You're supposed to listen.
Have you got a CAI? Did you mess with any of the vacuum lines/hoses associated with the secondary air injection system? "Air Pump" is just a code for a generalized fault in the 2ndary air injection system. The most common reason is a crossed vacuum line or reversed white check valve from a CAI intake installation. It could also mean that one of those vacuum lines either was removed or fell off. And then, it could be that the air pump has failed.
This CEL is only for emission controls. After warm up, the car should run perfectly fine with this light on.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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the car is bone stock...i havent touched anything inside the engine bay...if the vacuums would have been crossed, then the CEL shouldve turned on right when i left the dealership, correct? unless it mysteriously failed while driving 25miles to my g/f's house...
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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When I bought mine the vacuum lines were all messed up not to mention the check valve being backwards. And yes you can drive like that without the CEL coming on immediately. Sometimes mine would come on on the first cold start or sometime it would take awhile. Just be sure you read the vacuum diagram correctly because there are a lot of lines to check. Hell the Hinda tech by me thought that it was the air pump so they replaced that, under Honda Care, and all it ended up to be in the end was rechecking the vacuum lines. The best way to do this is to have another S next to yours and compare it.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:42 PM
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It can take a few cycles before the CEL comes on.

1) Don't sweat driving it. The air pump only operates for a very short time immediately at startup. It is only for emissions.

2) Don't keep resetting the ECU. Honda will want to be able to read the record of the faults so they know what to fix.

3) Get it fixed.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by infinity_racer,Jan 6 2005, 10:20 PM
the car is bone stock...i havent touched anything inside the engine bay...if the vacuums would have been crossed, then the CEL shouldve turned on right when i left the dealership, correct? unless it mysteriously failed while driving 25miles to my g/f's house...
A little story:
When I visited the Bay Area owners, we had a little tech talk. I had my code scanner with me. After the talk, one of the owners asked if I could scan his car because he had a CEL. I did so and it came up with "2ndary air injection system". We opened up his hood and began to trace his vacuum lines. Lo and behold, the very first line near the intake manifold was pulled off. The last time he was in the dealer getting some service done, the tech either accidentally knocked off the tube or he purposely (and not knowing why) removed it and never put it back.
Trace all you lines and check valve for this sort of thing. Once you eliminate this, you can get the code pulled properly and continue with the hunt for what might be wrong. It should be a P0411. It could also be a P0410, in which case, it could be the actually pump circuit. The trouble with the blink codes is that they don't give a precise code all the time.

Here's a thread to help you check these lines:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105368
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 04:09 AM
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thanks a lot fellas...i'll get to checking that tonight...i gotta run to my physical exam (and blood drawn ) then work, then i'll check the hoses as soon as i get home...i'll update when i get back

-ray
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