Alignment settings (yes, I did a search)
See that so many people are running such varied aligment settings, thought I'd try to get a general idea of what is recommended in my case.
At first, it sounds like a no braider: AP1 with AP2 wheels/tires, 75% street (canyon carving - very little highway), 25% track........ BUT, I have also added Espelir springs (bump stops cut in half on the shocks)...... supposed 20mm drop in the front and 30mm drop in the rear.
Recommendations? Interested to see recommendations with and without the springs..... Just trying to gain some basic understanding of alignment geometry.
If you have the time, please state WHY you recommend the alignment settings.
thanks,
Mark
At first, it sounds like a no braider: AP1 with AP2 wheels/tires, 75% street (canyon carving - very little highway), 25% track........ BUT, I have also added Espelir springs (bump stops cut in half on the shocks)...... supposed 20mm drop in the front and 30mm drop in the rear.
Recommendations? Interested to see recommendations with and without the springs..... Just trying to gain some basic understanding of alignment geometry.
If you have the time, please state WHY you recommend the alignment settings.
thanks,
Mark
My car is stock and I'm pretty happy with the balance as well as the overall grip.
Some peeps dial in a lil more negative camber for more overall grip, but at the expense of accelerated tire wear. Heck, I'm at 16k miles and I've completely wasted two sets of tires. (all the way through the rubber)
This car is set up just fine from the factory, after all, it's a street car right? The OEM spec alignment suits the OEM rubber.
If yer looking to do HPDE's, a more aggressive alignment will suit a more aggressive tire such as DOT approved racing tires.
I suppose some day I'll perform some slight modifications to my car, but for now, all though it is a bit soft, I'm happy with it the way it is.
Some peeps dial in a lil more negative camber for more overall grip, but at the expense of accelerated tire wear. Heck, I'm at 16k miles and I've completely wasted two sets of tires. (all the way through the rubber)
This car is set up just fine from the factory, after all, it's a street car right? The OEM spec alignment suits the OEM rubber.
If yer looking to do HPDE's, a more aggressive alignment will suit a more aggressive tire such as DOT approved racing tires.
I suppose some day I'll perform some slight modifications to my car, but for now, all though it is a bit soft, I'm happy with it the way it is.
Mark - I just found mine online -
FRONT
caster: 7.0*
camber: -0.75*
toe: -0.15" (L+R) total toe -0.30"
REAR
camber: -2.25*
toe: 0.20" (L+R) total toe 0.40"
fyi - as you know I have espelirs too, and they lowered my car closer to 1.75" than the 1.25" they claim. I started with the UK alignment specs and then tweaked them a little to get to where I wanted them to be. I went with the extra camber in the rear to improve corner handling - obviously it gives you a greater contact patch when you are in a corner hard - the only downside it that you sacrifice straight line stability - but not too much. If you like to push your car, then I would highly recommend my settings.
FRONT
caster: 7.0*
camber: -0.75*
toe: -0.15" (L+R) total toe -0.30"
REAR
camber: -2.25*
toe: 0.20" (L+R) total toe 0.40"
fyi - as you know I have espelirs too, and they lowered my car closer to 1.75" than the 1.25" they claim. I started with the UK alignment specs and then tweaked them a little to get to where I wanted them to be. I went with the extra camber in the rear to improve corner handling - obviously it gives you a greater contact patch when you are in a corner hard - the only downside it that you sacrifice straight line stability - but not too much. If you like to push your car, then I would highly recommend my settings.
If you're concerned about track/auto-x performance, take a look in the R&C forum. You'll find a days worth of reading about alignments in there.
You'll need to factor in what is acceptable tire wear and how you like the car to handle. People seem to like 6.0*+ camber up front with max negative camber (usually -1.5*) and 0 toe. In the rear, -2.0 or more negative camber and at least 1/8" toe-in (1/4" is better, but you'll rip through your tires very quickly). The toe-in is needed for the bump-steer; without it, you'll go toe out in the rear and have a *bit* of oversteer.
You'll need to factor in what is acceptable tire wear and how you like the car to handle. People seem to like 6.0*+ camber up front with max negative camber (usually -1.5*) and 0 toe. In the rear, -2.0 or more negative camber and at least 1/8" toe-in (1/4" is better, but you'll rip through your tires very quickly). The toe-in is needed for the bump-steer; without it, you'll go toe out in the rear and have a *bit* of oversteer.
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CyBerNeo
S2000 Under The Hood
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May 24, 2005 02:50 PM








