Merknsissys

Hey everyone I hate to fire up another one of these threads but Ive read most threads based on these threads and my own tech experience this is where im at...I only get one code p1399 nothin on individual cylinders ive replaced all the coil packs with AP2 packs after reading the debate on coils I figured these were my best bet. I have cleaned the TB MAP hole and contacts and applied the zip tie, also Ive replaced the TPS sensor and Ive only been running chevron 93 with the appropriate amount of B12 chemtool in every tank for 3 weeks and no difference at all. When checking my retainers I did notice that the valves were all a bit tight so ill be going over them again next weekend when my tools get here ive had the charging portion of the ALT tested (14.3 with load) but not the Amp load yet, no access to these tools at the moment. When I pulled the first set of plugs I noticed a couple of akward carbon fouling on one side of the plug and the ground electrode looked a bit lean which automatically told me injectors or low fuel pressure from past exp. But im not sure yet when the cars cold it runs decent but still lacks a bit of power and the idle will move around a 100rpm every once and a while. After driving for more than 45 mins or so she gets really boggy with the ac on I can hardly take off with a hard sputter or if rolling at 3-5mph at stupid light throttle I can get a consistent break up which told me TPS but again this was not the case. So heres where im stuck until further diagnosis also for ppl that are gonna say cat I have a berk 70mm TP.

So basically what im asking is some input on the stock FP wondering if they never changed it and ran it till it got weak.
Also CKP sensor whats the chance this is malfunctioning and confusing timing signals or make them erradict cause there are times when it feels as if the cars pulling alot of timing out cause I can literally go to WOT in 2nd and feel like im barely getting any acceleration and then it will subside but not if the ac is on it bogs constantly at that time and considering I cant get it to set a definitive cylinder no matter how many times i reset it could this be the culprit?
As for the MAP I think im going to end up swapping it anyways since I just did the TPS and it wouldnt hurt my bank at 50$

So ill be adding and updating as I change a fidle with more stuff the car is a 03 AP1 78k miles thanks for all the input guys.

Merknsissys

Also the car is avg. 24mpg

DrakeValle

Have you done a compression and leakdown test just to see what the numbers were?

Merknsissys

No unfortunately my dads shop is 2 hours south of me I will be doing a leak down and conpression test and valve run out next weekend and will update with my results im hoping that they are fine I did notice what sounded to me like the classic B16 LMA tap rite around 3800-4700 sound hoping that its common and that I may need to do the TCT fix and that its not wrist pin slap :/

Merknsissys

So quick update did the compression test last weekend, 240 on all cylinders 235 on #2, leak down showed little to no variation on the gauge at all so happy this is the case. Next I guess at this point is injectors or pump...starting with a new pump and reg. Would anyone suggest a Ballade Sports 340lph? or just stick with a AEM 320lph? Obviously the flow rate is much more than i would need on my stock car but this question is more based on reliability any input is appreciated.