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Not to bring an old thread back from the dead, but if anyone with an AP1 is unsure whether or not the CR boot is compatible with an AP1...it is. Just ordered and installed. There was a little drilling or use of a dremel tool involved. Nothing too painful, its just that there are two plastic rivets under the console that must be detached from the console before you can remove and replace the boot. Took me about 2 minutes with a large drill bit. Mostly took two minutes because I was being super cautious.
Here is a link to another AP1 Boot. The instructions worked perfectly for me. Hope this helps other AP1 owners. The yellow stitching and yellow knob is a great accent to my Spa Yellow AP1.
So I tried to make mine today from this Royal bottle bag but after I got all of the clips free there is a spot in the center between the 2 buttons and the boot itself.. And mine had alot of tention still there so I out it back cause I didn't wona break that trim piece. I figured after all if the clips were free it would come out with ease, and I also just took the 4 screws out for the buttons just to see if that's why too wasn't the case. I'm 3ed owner I'm wondering if some dbag glued it ? ..
Nvm just read the guy above my post's post looks the same way I guess I have to drill out the plastic rivits.. Any idea if its gona show or hold firmly and not be loose after I drill them out ? I just don't wona buy more parts that I don't have too breaking shit sucks.
Previous owner(s) of my new-to-me AP2 ran deep countersunk knobs. The boot is compressed down and looks stupid now that I've installed the OEM titanium knob (ignore the extra nut, it's the only way I can get the numbers to remain aligned).
Any advice to bring the boot back into shape? Ironing or a gentle heat gun? Should something be actually connecting it to the shifter?
Do not iron leather. It'll get damaged. Light steam kind of works, but can risk damaging the leather. Hold the steamer (on low) about 6 inches away or so. If it's pleather or vinyl, it'll just melt. Make sure you condition the leather afterward.
Frankly, that's how shift boots kind of look. I replaced my shift boot with alcantara years ago and it sits the same despite being brand new. It's largely because there is more material than shifter, so the rest of it sags. Look at the OP and the base sags a bit.
If you want to prevent the top of the boot itself so it doesn't slide down, you can remove the center console and zip-tie the top of the boot to the shifter so it doesn't settle. Fold down a piece and zip-tie around it. Not too tight so it can articulate but tight enough so it doesn't move.
Here is a another solution for the shift boot looking like that. I'm not a fan of that look either and here is what I did. Search Acuity shift boot collar. It's about $40. I think it provides a nice, clean, finished look.
