ok, just got back from round two of the testing... here are the details:

Ambient Temp: 82-84*F

First test was with the mat on. What I did was I took a thermometer and taped it's probe to the front of the air inlet. I figured, this way we could see how warm the air was that was going into the car. After letting the car warm up to operating temp, 180-190*F, I took off on a 5 minute drive. Top speed reached was 38-40mph.

At the end of 5 minute drive:
Temp of probe was 95*F
Temp of intake charge(at IAT sensor) was 122*F

At then end of 3 minute idle:
Temp of probe was 109*F
Temp of intake charge(at IAT sensor) was 144*F

At the end of another 5 minute drive:
Temp of probe was 95*F
Temp of intake charge(at IAT sensor) was 144*F

Now without the mat:
As soon as I took off the mat:
Temp of probe was 110*F - remember it only took me about 30 seconds to take off the mat and walk into car to read temp.

At the end of 3 minute idle:
Temp of pobe was 130*F
Temp if intake charge(at IAT sensor was 153*F)

At the end of 5 minute drive:
Temp of probe was 107*F
Temp of intake charge(at IAT sensor) was 151*F

During the drive, there was on average about 15-20*F of temperature difference at the probe. So the air that's being sucked in is cool with the mat on. but it would appear that the box as well as the tube is stull cooking the air a little. I think insulation of the box itself is still a good idea. This is especially true for stop and go situations where the is time for the box to heat up and start to bake the air. On a sustained drive, the IAT temp tends to come down. Note the temp difference between the two idle session.

In a word, yes this very simple mod works to reduce charge temp. I am going to isulate the box itself as well later on this week. I've found some insulation for air ducts that has adhesive on one side and the other side is foil type material with a few layers of insulation. I think this will help the temp of the air by the time it gets to the TB.

-Shing

 

Thank you for being our test mule, i always feel like doing these things but procrastinate...

 

That stat is very interesting. Thanks for the experiment!

cheers,

 

"shingles": A man after my own heart. Well Done! Keep up the good work.

 

I think you've found at least a partitial if not significant fix to the takeoff stumbling after idling.

Note that the intake manifold and tb are heated by coolant and these also may cook the air somewhat as well.

After my drive this morning with the mat, the intake manifold was quite warm but the tb was only slightly warm and the tube was cool all to the touch. I recommend tb coolant bypass to all S2Ks kept in year round non freezing conditions.

 

Prolene,

I'd definitely like to get a look at your bypass. Did you have to cut any hard lines, or was it just a simply bypass?

I also rigged up a simply cardboard "radiator blocker" two days ago. I can't say the car felt any more powerful, but it did seem to ease take off bogging/hesitation. I love simple mods that provide benefit. I may even make up a simple fiberglass unit with an attached insulation/foil layer. Should cost all of $25 in materials.

On the topic of intake manifold heat, a local SoCal company should have phenolic insualtor gaskets for our intake manifold in the near future (like a few weeks). The intake manifold studs still conduct heat pretty well, but there might be a way around that too.

UL

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Prolene,

I'd definitely like to get a look at your bypass.

 

UL - can't wait to see it. I've seen the phenolic spacers in late-model mustangs, a good solution for decreasing the Al intake heat.

 

Shing,

Thanks for your continued investigation and trials. Very helpful info.

 

UL,

Looks like you SoCal folks have all the resourcces. I've been looking into phenolic spacers here but it's hard to find someone in town to do it so I haven't posted anything....

let us know how that goes.

-Shing