For that matter...what about plugging up the drain holes and filling that first chamber with a little watter (say 1/4 to 1/2 inch)? As the water splashes aroundinside the box, it should evaporate and cool things down a bit. The only problem I can see is that it has nowhere to go except the slot between the "scoop" and the plastic elbow, and then of course, into the engine.

 

In that case Johnny, why not just dump a pound of ice in the front chamber of the airbox? Hey Shingles, while you're playing with the scantool, why not try it? See if you get a temp reduction :-)

Marcucci, Hondata is the company I was talking about. We'll see what the benefit is, as the stock gasket is paper, which is insulative, and the studs conduct heat, so it may be necessary to use a plastic washer underneath the nuts and wrap the studs with some insulating tape. Couldn't hurt though.

On the TB coolant, you shouldn't see idling problems if temps are above 50-60F. That kind of limits the simple mod to those in places like SoCal, AZ, Texas, Florida, etc. However, it wouldn't be too hard to rig up a simple valve that allows you to route coolant to the TB in cold weather, and then just shut the valve once warmed up.

UL

 

The gasket will probably be closer to $60, unless I can get enough orders to offset by tooling costs.

Take a look at the Heatshield gasket page or go to the downloads section and grab a brochure from there.

Doug www.hondata.com

 

Ice sounds better, but I thought I saw someone post that it wasn't allowed to use ice. But, I can't see how anyone could say much about water.

 

Welcome Doug! I just checked out the link and see that you include insulating washers. Can't wait to see the units when you get them.

UL

 

Funny this came up, but I was in Beaver Lumber last week, and I saw a roll of this insulation material on a spool called Ayr-Foil, had a side that looked like just a white honeycomb of plastic, on the other side was a reflective silver coating. Apparently is rated for quite high heat. They don't make it for an automotive application of course, but I think it would work.

The company name is Ayr-Reflective ((888) 297-3645))
and I find little info on the web about it. This product might be something better than using the standard sun visor. It wasn't expensive either.

DM

 

I just stopped by OSH on my way home and found some thin bubble wrap that is coated on both sides with silver foil, much like the mat material Shingles used. It is $0.50/sq foot (comes in 2 ft wide rolls). I bought a can of spray adhesive and will mess around with a cardboard shape (in preparation for a fiberglass one later, maybe incorporating the foil under the resin). The foil wrap should also be easy to tape to the airbox, or to make a wrap for the intake pipe.

Prolene, I looked at my manual and the car and the bypass does look pretty simple. What size hose did you use to seal off the TB? Also, what size nipple did you use to connect the two factory hoses together?

On the idle issue, if Prolene bypassed like I think he did, there should be no issue because coolant will still flow to the Idle Air Control valve (IAC).

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]What size hose did you use to seal off the TB?

 

Well, I spent a couple hours in the garage today messing with the airbox.

I used a cardboard box as my source material to stiffen and hold the reflective insulator. One side of the box was white, which I used as the surface facing upward (to reduce heat emissions). The bottom side was sprayed with 3M adhesive and the insulation glued on.

The overall shape is relatively simple. The blocker runs from the passenger side fender all the way to the end of the airbox. Under the air intake opening the blocker is cut so that it can bend and slide under the duct. Where the radiator rises up (and where the cap is located) I cut away cardboard, but left a flap of insulation. Took about an hour of just cutting and test fitting the cardboard. If I get some time in the next couple weeks I'll lay up a fiberglass example using the template I created today. My only concern is how to attach it, as right now I'm just using a force fit and some tape. Total cost? $5.00. Results? Similar to what others have noticed. It isn't pretty, but it does seem to work.

I also taped some of the insulation on the back side of the airbox, as well as on the front of the airbox which is exposed to air from the cooling fans. Ideally I'd want to take off the entire airbox and coat it with something, but for now I'm just screwing around. Tomorrow I'll try and make a reflective sleeve for the filter to TB tube.

On the TB bypass, the tubing is standard 1/4" ID, 1/2" OD heater tubing. My goal is to permanently bypass the TB, while inserting a couple of valves in the IAC coolant circuit. This will serve two functions. First, even when I bypass the IAC, it will be full of coolant (don't want it to run dry) and second I can open up the valves in cold weather. I found everything but the valves today, so I'll have to keep looking.

Again, thanks to xviper, shingles and prolene for piquing interest in this topic.

UL

 

ultimate lurker and xviper,

I'd love to see pictures of your latest creations, especially how you are guiding ambient air to the intake.

Thanks,

Ted

p.s. Feel free to email photos to me if you need them hosted.