maybe a helicoil insert ?

 

You can try a thread chaser to repair threads. https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...ad-chaser-sets

 

+1. I used a similar kit I got on Amazon. One of the best tools ever. This isn't at all like a thread tap. Those cut new threads, and can make a real mess if threads are in bad shape. They remove material, and can end up cutting the threads away.

These thread restoration tools aren't sharp. They don't cut. Don't remove material. They just sort of mall the material back into shape.

In addition to being more likely to save the threads, these also have advantage of generating almost zero metal chips that might get left behind.

Secret to these is lube them up well, and go slow. Go forward, go backwards. Go forwards just a little more, go backwards. Over and over and over. You seriously don't want to break one of these hardened metal slugs tightly into a threaded hole.

 

Is there a thread which details which engine number cut-off for not requiring 4 hole bolt installation ?

Bought '02 suzuka blue w/34,000. Engine #1026693

Any idea at what milage problems arise?

Any help appreciated.

 

This is not the first time this has happened.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...r-one-1077027/

Once the dust settles, I think we need some voices of reason to step in and advise people if this procedure is worth the risk (I personally do not feel it is worth the risk-- the hype was overblown).

Good luck OP -- hang in there.

 

I would never try this procedure unless the oil pump is out of the way. Using u joints and extensions on a torque critical bolt is a recipe for disaster. If that bolt doesn't enter perfectly chances are you're going to mess up the threads. Then inaccurate torque from the extensions and u joints.

 

Okay, so after a month of research and finally getting around to it, the bolt is in.
I decide to use this repair procedure https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...epair-1162873/
I used a 5/16-24 Helicoil kit Why did I go this route? Because this one was only a $50 kit while the M8 X 0.75 Thread repair kits would have been $200+ becuase I'm in Canada and the dollar sucks right now for us.
I found the kits here https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/M8x...epair-kit.html and of course, I literally just found this one but it's mainly based in the UK not a bad price for this one, don't know about shipping or anything though..

So using a 5/16-24 helicoil works out to be about 7.9 X 1ish, and that means the threads on the actual bolt will change. I used a 5/16-24 die to re-thread the oil jet bolt and somehow it worked. You can see the threads are a little butchered but they're there.

Those are both the old oil jet design with two holes instead of 4 that I used for practice, and other photo is to show comparison in threads.

I was also able to tap and insert the helicoil into cylinder 2 without taking the pump off because there was just enough clearance for a small extension, the tap, the tap to socket adapter, and the ratchet to fit in-between the pump and the block. I was not able to take out the tab at the end of the coil however, when I put a rod in there to punch it out, it moved it so now it's part of the threads. Is that okay still??? That's my only concern, but the bolt is in and torqued down to 12ft-lbs

I making a video that's a little more info to it, but moral of the story is f*ck trying to build a racecar.

 

The tab at the end will be fine. If it was a through hole you would break the end off so the bolt could continue out the other side. You should have told Dylan to ask me for a thread chaser
Glad you got it fixed. Looking forward to seeing the car around this year.

 

Has there been issues with the original oil squirters failing? Man! I'd have second thoughts doing this "upgrade" --- then hitting redline.