Billman's Brake Fluid Gravity bleeding revised
Billman, you state to let it drip until it turns deep blue. This is easy to notice if you are flushing OEM fluid since Super blue is Blue.
How about if you are flushing existing superblue fluid that is fairly fresh. I say this because my pedal is inconsistent and i want to correct it with your method.
Thsnks.
How about if you are flushing existing superblue fluid that is fairly fresh. I say this because my pedal is inconsistent and i want to correct it with your method.
Thsnks.
Just swapped out all my original fluids yesterday. I ended up with a spongy brake pedal(not floaty, spongy). I started with a gravity bleed on all 4 corners after exchanging the fluid in the reservoir followed by pressurized bleed at each corner by pedal once all the fluid was exchanged. Only problem was I accidentally ran the reservoir dry by accident while I went to balance the tires.
I proceded to bleed by pedal force at all four corners untill i *thought* I got all the air out. I went RR to LR to RF to LF not knowing the proper bleed sequence and now I am left with a pedal less firm than before. I am in process of trying the "brick method" currently and will report back with my findings but I have a feeling I will need to re-bleed the system.
I proceded to bleed by pedal force at all four corners untill i *thought* I got all the air out. I went RR to LR to RF to LF not knowing the proper bleed sequence and now I am left with a pedal less firm than before. I am in process of trying the "brick method" currently and will report back with my findings but I have a feeling I will need to re-bleed the system.
Just swapped out all my original fluids yesterday. I ended up with a spongy brake pedal(not floaty, spongy). I started with a gravity bleed on all 4 corners after exchanging the fluid in the reservoir followed by pressurized bleed at each corner by pedal once all the fluid was exchanged. Only problem was I accidentally ran the reservoir dry by accident while I went to balance the tires.
I proceded to bleed by pedal force at all four corners untill i *thought* I got all the air out. I went RR to LR to RF to LF not knowing the proper bleed sequence and now I am left with a pedal less firm than before. I am in process of trying the "brick method" currently and will report back with my findings but I have a feeling I will need to re-bleed the system.
I proceded to bleed by pedal force at all four corners untill i *thought* I got all the air out. I went RR to LR to RF to LF not knowing the proper bleed sequence and now I am left with a pedal less firm than before. I am in process of trying the "brick method" currently and will report back with my findings but I have a feeling I will need to re-bleed the system.
you may need "bench bleed" your master cylinder to prime it first before switching to gravity, 2 man, brick or whatever alternative method you choose.
also the following are the bleed orders:
billman's rf, lf, lr, rr
oem honda lf, rf, lr, rr (closest to furthest point from the master)
i'm not sure where the whole start from the furthest point procedure started.
I used this dorman kit from o'reilly auto parts
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0678&ppt=C0067
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0678&ppt=C0067




