I went ahead and did this last weekend on my 05 S2000. Works great and pedal feels great! Thanks Billman250

Just out of curiosity, can this method of bleeding be done on other makes and models? I would like to do it on a Mazda 3 and a Toyota Camry.

 

Also, went ahead and redid the brakes. New rotors, brake pucks, and fluid. One question... I assume that ATE yellow (DOT 4) is somewhat miscible with OEM Honda DOT 3. There was prolly a few cc's of old fluid in the line. Even after thorough bleeding.

Brakes definitely have a much more positive feel. The old front rotors were most probably original (40K on car). Pretty scored & glazed over. With a hefty lip on the edge.

400-500 miles for break-in of the new brakes. Correcto?


Thanks!

 

Just do a few hard stops from 50'ish to bed them in.

 

Bedding in brakes involved the deposition of a transfer layer from the brake pad to the brake rotor. It's this transfer layer which allows for maximum performance between the two surfaces. People who need maximum braking performance immediately usually follow the "bedding in" procedure which involves a series of very hard stops to heat the brakes up as much as possible and speed deposition of the transfer layer.

Those who don't plan on immediately visiting a race track after installing new brakes can just drive normally for a few hundred miles and the new brakes will "break" themselves in without any special procedure on your part.

 

another great DIY by Billman, thank you sir.

Did mine...judging by how hard the caps were to get off the nipple, and fluid color...doubt it was ever done.
Used the Mityvac 7400 with nipple/shut off attachment for both my clutch, and my brakes. I stuck with OEM fluid...already ordered it before reading up and well, it held up fine for 128K miles anyway.

Didn't even have to pull the wheels off (figured that out after the first one)...just reach in, feel for nipple, slide box wrench over, nipple attachment and go for it.

Awesome.

 

bumping this up as I have a question...

Im planning on revamping my brakes.. got some new rotors blanks F+R, Project Mu Club racers, Motul RBF600, and ballade SS lines... Planning on doing this along with the hub/wheel bearings for the rear...

anyways my question is.. Is it okay to bleed (pump bleed with cheap synthetic fluid) each brake right after you change the lines? Meaning if i were to change the Driver side front line first i will bleed it after i tighten up the SS line on the driver side front.
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I guess the reasoning for this is to evacuate air as fast as possible and minimize the amount of time air stays in the system.

After the lines are free of air ill gravity bleed the motul into the brake system.

 

Just for my technical understanding - what would be the reasoning behind not gravity bleeding all 4 corners at once?

Or would it make no difference to flow rate and doing one corner at a time result in the same amount of time spent?

 

No problem to do all 4 at once, be careful to not run master empty.

 

many many thanks Billman for the DIY! I've done this twice, and I did it both one wheel at a time, and all four at once!

My tips/sequence;

- I actually dont use a syringe/turkey baster. I just let it all drip out via gravity. I find this is cleaner, and eliminates the possibility of brake fluid dropping on your fenders/paint work

- I do all four at once, you just got to keep an eye on the BMC more often. You will find you will shut off the driver front caliper first being so close to the BMC. For reference, I close off FR, FL, RR, RL. (RHD drive car)

- For my fluid catchers, I used 4 x 600ml clear bottles that had water in previosuly. I just drilled a hole, and snugly put in the clear hose. no leaks at all since its a snug hole for the hose to enter the cap.

- I put two rags surrounding the BMC, one rag on airbox/chassis flat beam. The funnel rests on the rags next to the BMC, and the brake fluid bottle rests on teh rag sitting on the airbox/flat beam. The rags doa great drop of catching any paint residue!

Flushing with all four open took me around 45min in total, and I feel it goes much faster than waiting for one caliper also!

Hope the above was helpful!

 

Any place you can buy ATE Super Blue online for a reasonable price and have it shipped to the US? The only place I've seen it is Ebay @ $60-$70 per can (which I won't pay, nor should anyone else).