S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

bizarro power loss/sputtering issue

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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Spartarus
You can get away with driving on a bad #2 sensor forever, because it's only there to monitor the cat. It doesn't affect anything in the engine.

The #1 sensor is used for closed-loop fuel correction. The car only runs in closed-loop fueling above a certain coolant temp. That explains why it only happens hot. Running cold, the engine will run fine. Once it gets to operating temperature, and starts reading the (bad) O2 sensor to fine-tune fueling, the car runs like crap.

Replace the front O2 sensor. The problem will go away.

Thanks a lot. Any trick to getting this o2 out or its pretty straight forward? I havent even looked to see where it is yet but i assume its under the manifold cover, Its been in the car 15 years so im gonna assume right now it wont come out without some heat and/or leverage.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 12:43 PM
  #12  
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The hardest part is undoing the electrical connector because it's obscured by the transmission. They're all pull tabs.

When you remove the sensor from the exhaust, don't crank on it, get the longest wrench you can find I think it's a 7/8ths, and just give it a quick whack.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Grilla
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0410

Says right there that it causes hesitation on acceleration. I think maybe your car is running too rich and is choking on fuel. Your dead primary O2 may have been a direct result, but definitely now you're not running in closed loop (self-corrected AFR) and having a CEL you have way too much fuel. Fix the codes now or pretty soon your cat will have an issue, too.
Secondary air injection doesn't cause any hesitation as the air-pump does not work while the car is at operating temperature. The air pump only works on cold starts to aid in emissions burn off and to help the catalytic converter come up to temperature.

The cat and O2 sensor won't work until exhaust temperature is roughly 600F at the end of the exhaust manifold, ideally for it to work at it's most efficient exhaust temp should be ~800F.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
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Yes. PB blaster is helpful.

Otherwise, 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid. Don't ask me why that works, but it works so well that I can remove rusty-ass 18-year-old exhaust bolts with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

Here's a shot from the FSM detailing the location of the parts in question.

...I guess you click to expand...? Tell me if the image isn't working.
Attached Thumbnails bizarro power loss/sputtering issue-replace-pri.jpg  
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 11:21 PM
  #15  
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Whenever I remove o2's I warm the car up well. Get it hot and it should break loose. Piece of cake
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 06:10 AM
  #16  
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Thanks a lot guys for all the input. Any suggestions as to where i can find the upstream o2 for the best price? Dealer price is crazy..
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 07:59 AM
  #17  
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Rockauto

There are many options from Rockauto. Denso is the OEM supplier, Bosch would be second choice if you're really strapped for cash. Don't bother with any of the other brands.

Denso is $92, Bosch $35.

Last edited by Spartarus; Nov 13, 2016 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 01:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Spartarus
Yes. PB blaster is helpful.

Otherwise, 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid. Don't ask me why that works, but it works so well that I can remove rusty-ass 18-year-old exhaust bolts with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

Here's a shot from the FSM detailing the location of the parts in question.

...I guess you click to expand...? Tell me if the image isn't working.

Thanks man the image works, but thats the downstream sensor. Mine is bank 1 circuit 1 so isnt that one in the manifold??
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 02:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by speakeasy2009
Thanks man the image works, but thats the downstream sensor. Mine is bank 1 circuit 1 so isnt that one in the manifold??
Ah, that's a combination picture.

The first picture shows both sensor plugs on the left side, that's what it's meant to illustrate. It's a drawing from behind the transmission mount, so the Downstream sensor is also pictured in the frame, but that's just a conincidence. It's not the focus of that picture.

The second picture shows the upstream sensor (in the manifold) with a wrench on it. That's the sensor you remove. Hence the cartoon wrench.

Those cartoon drawings are not always perfect, or easy to understand.. That is the factory manual though, not some 3rd-party manual.

Last edited by Spartarus; Nov 13, 2016 at 02:17 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 05:33 PM
  #20  
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After reading thru this thread am I correct to conclude that without a dyno and a tuner installing an itb system would be a waste of resources? Thanks
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