I think this solution is the most practical at this point.

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions guys.

Matt

 

I think this solution is the most practical at this point.

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions guys.

Matt
[/quote]

This is what I would do also. Pretty easy to fabricate an aluminum cover to slip over and retain with the nut to add strength for the crack also. Welding without properly cleaning wouldn't be my advice.

 

that bolt doesnt do anything structural so the weld doesnt have to be perfect, the weld just has to keep the pieces together. Any good welder should be able to do that on the car no problem.

 

JBWeld

 

I think this solution is the most practical at this point.

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions guys.

Matt
[/quote]

This is what I would do also. Pretty easy to fabricate an aluminum cover to slip over and retain with the nut to add strength for the crack also. Welding without properly cleaning wouldn't be my advice.
[/quote]
I think I may look into this. It makes more sense to do this because of the below comment too.


I agree. I think I was able to salvage some of it (see below).


Yessir. I added some to the crack for support after I removed this POS!


//Update//

Again, thanks a lot to everyone who offered their advice. I figured I'd report back with my minor success in case anyone ever runs into something like this.

Back story:
I was unable to use an extractor bit early on simply because it would not grab. Also because it was tapered I was only able to get a small portion of it into the hold without risking damage to the head itself. Instead, I drilled out the bolt with a much smaller drill bit and tried again; no dice. I stopped using the drill bits for fear of ruining all the threads and attempted to retap the threads using a kit. This is when I cracked the outside wall of the thread on the head.

Drilling it out yielded the threads left by the bolt that was broken off.
[attachment=55420:IMAG0545.jpg]

• I used a bit just slightly smaller than the threads but large enough to obviously grab onto the debris.
• Turned it clockwise (tighty) to spin the remaining debris out of the threads.
• Doing this allowed me to salvage the threads on the end (~3/4 inch or so I estimate).
• I already had a spare replacement bolt on hand.
• I was able to tq it to the 8.7lbs recommended without the crack growing (I think I may be in the clear).

[attachment=55421:success_kid (2).jpg]

 

Matt, if you ever want to weld the crack, you're more than welcome to borrow my TIG.

 

I see so many stuff ups when people use extractors.

If you break a bolt off in alloy, get a welder and weld a knob into the broken off piece. You can then use side cutters to grab it and wind it out. So many times I've seen extractors expand the broken off part making the situation worse.

 

If you do not go the weld route, do the JB Weld but use a square piece of metal to cover the area of the crack, don't just dab it over the crack and call it a day. That way the "patch" has a much larger area of strength. You can cut a thicker piece of aluminum and file down the edges to make it fit and look better.

 

Thanks bud. I will keep that in mind if I am feeling adventurous!

I have seen this done with great success. This would have been, without a doubt, the easiest solution when I first did this. Originally there was a small piece of the bolt still hanging out of the head.

I plan on doing this once it warms up. I'm going to do a bit of research regarding prepping and whatnot and attempt to do it as correctly as possible.

Thanks guys.