Checking valves tomorrow.

 

hey mine sounds alot like this!!!but fewer and less louder pops

 

so despite people telling me not to put octane boosters in my tank.. i did so..and then also added 2 bottles of lucas upper cyclinder lubricant. I felt that acceleration felt slightly better.. sadly i cant find the time to drive the car, so it sits covered up

I purchased the spark plugs and will be installing them soon..next thing on the list is honda filter and Amsoil

 

None of those things seem like they would solve your problem.

Since you're a new owner -- make sure to use the proper spark plugs w/ proper gap. The factory torque settings are too low and the plugs will back out (search s2ki) -- so make sure you torque them to ~20-22 ft-lb (factory originally said 13 I believe, dangerously low):
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/765...t__p__23473028

Having said that, I would also be looking at a compression test:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/434...ssion-testing/

And check/adjust your valves and check for cracked retainers:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/521...t__p__11356707
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/245...ve-adjustment/

The compression test, valve adjustment, and retainer check would be for peace of mind. Coil packs or a leaky fuel injector might be a fix, however.

 

update for whoever cares to read:


My s2000 threw a CEL 4-8-16, a month after purchasing the car. After a quick diagnosis, there was a misfire on cyl 1 and random misfires, as well as the mysterious P1456 code.
on 4-9-16, I decided to swap on the coil packs (30520pna007 ) from my k24 accord. Still the misfire persisted. I got in touch with a local accord friend and he sold me his set of k24 coil packs (less mileage). The CEL did not return for 50+ miles after coil pack swap, however, the car was still clearly misfiring. Acceleration was fine. the erratic puffs from the exhaust and shakes and tremors inside the cockpit were my only proof. Being dog tired, i went to sleep, and resumed my work 6 hours later, right before dawn. I installed the new spark plugs that i had previously purchased. Upon inspection, the originals had a little bit of oil on the threads near the tip, the tips were blackened, but the nibs on the electrodes were still in perfect condition on all 4. Sadly the misfires continued, and the CEL came back on, even though i disconn. the batt. again.

throwing my hands in the air, i took my car to a reputable honda mechanic. A 3rd set of coil packs were tested on the car after swapping out injectors and playing with the map sensor. All three of these tests did not yield a satisfactory result. A leakdown test was performed, which indicated very little % in leak. Finally a valve adjustment was performed ( which is what i initially requested) I was told some of the valves were a little tight.. The car was driven and left on, the CEL did not return, however on the computer, misfires were still detected in Cyl 1. Since the CEL did not return, i was told i can come pick up the car. I was actually in a bit of a rush to get my car back.

After speaking to the awesome owner for a while, i took my car to the nearest parking lot, and listened and felt closely for any puffs or tremors. Fortunately, i felt neither.

I feel that it is still to early to tell if the issue has been resolved. After reading and learning so much on S2Ki, i've gathered that these misfires usually return for a higher percentage of unfortunate owners, within a few days. This issue is quite frustrating because I live in a emissions regulated county in GA, and i need to have my emissions done...furthermore, who wants to stare at a glaring CEL in such a beautiful car..

thanks for reading

 

Has the O2 sensor ever been changed in your car? They cars that sit for long periods can accelerate the wear on old O2 sensors, and the primary basically controls your air fuel ratio, if you have a lazy O2 sensor the computer could be flooding the engine with gas, probably why your spark plugs were so dark. You can check with a cheap obd2 scanner it's either O2 voltage or Lambda, it should be hovering up and down around 400mV if it stays near 800 or 200mV for anything more than a split second under idle it's lazy.

 

Thanks bro, I'll check it out.