Clutch Bleed
05-14-2018, 07:00 PM
#11
05-15-2018, 09:54 AM
#12
Scrap the method posted above.
Do this: (CREDIT GOES TO OUR MASTER MECHANIC BILLMAN250)
1. Remove clutch fluid reservoir cap. If it's full, remove some fluid so it won't overflow. Have an assistant near the engine bay looking at the reservoir.
2. Remove clutch slave cylinder (remove the 2 12 mm bolts holding it). ***Don't disassemble anything.
3. Point bleeder straight up
4. Push rod into slave cylinder slowly. Have your assistant check the clutch fluid reservoir for air bubbles as you're pushing the rod in. Make sure the fluid doesn't overflow.
5. Release the rod to its full extension.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 8 times or more. Until your assistant doesn't see any air bubbles coming out of the clutch fluid reservoir anymore.
DONE. Let us know how it goes.
Do this: (CREDIT GOES TO OUR MASTER MECHANIC BILLMAN250)
1. Remove clutch fluid reservoir cap. If it's full, remove some fluid so it won't overflow. Have an assistant near the engine bay looking at the reservoir.
2. Remove clutch slave cylinder (remove the 2 12 mm bolts holding it). ***Don't disassemble anything.
3. Point bleeder straight up
4. Push rod into slave cylinder slowly. Have your assistant check the clutch fluid reservoir for air bubbles as you're pushing the rod in. Make sure the fluid doesn't overflow.
5. Release the rod to its full extension.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 8 times or more. Until your assistant doesn't see any air bubbles coming out of the clutch fluid reservoir anymore.
DONE. Let us know how it goes.
05-15-2018, 12:18 PM
#13
Scrap the method posted above.
Do this: (CREDIT GOES TO OUR MASTER MECHANIC BILLMAN250)
1. Remove clutch fluid reservoir cap. If it's full, remove some fluid so it won't overflow. Have an assistant near the engine bay looking at the reservoir.
2. Remove clutch slave cylinder (remove the 2 12 mm bolts holding it). ***Don't disassemble anything.
3. Point bleeder straight up
4. Push rod into slave cylinder slowly. Have your assistant check the clutch fluid reservoir for air bubbles as you're pushing the rod in. Make sure the fluid doesn't overflow.
5. Release the rod to its full extension.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 8 times or more. Until your assistant doesn't see any air bubbles coming out of the clutch fluid reservoir anymore.
DONE. Let us know how it goes.
Do this: (CREDIT GOES TO OUR MASTER MECHANIC BILLMAN250)
1. Remove clutch fluid reservoir cap. If it's full, remove some fluid so it won't overflow. Have an assistant near the engine bay looking at the reservoir.
2. Remove clutch slave cylinder (remove the 2 12 mm bolts holding it). ***Don't disassemble anything.
3. Point bleeder straight up
4. Push rod into slave cylinder slowly. Have your assistant check the clutch fluid reservoir for air bubbles as you're pushing the rod in. Make sure the fluid doesn't overflow.
5. Release the rod to its full extension.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 8 times or more. Until your assistant doesn't see any air bubbles coming out of the clutch fluid reservoir anymore.
DONE. Let us know how it goes.
05-15-2018, 12:20 PM
#14
Dang so sorry to hear that. No bubbles came out the reservoir when you were pushing the piston in?
Then as a last resort, I'd try what I suggested before (quoted below)
Before you do that, try bleeding the clutch fluid with the slave cylinder removed and the bleeder pointing up. Meaning the bleeder valve is at the highest point of the slave cylinder.
How much fluid did you use to bleed the system tonight?
Attach a plastic tube while you’re bleeding so that you’ll see the air bubbles coming out.
Please let us know how it goes
Maybe try this too. This is what the service manual says on how to bleed the clutch:
- Attach a hose to bleeder screw and suspend hose in a container of brake fluid.
- Make sure there's adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose
- Refill clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
*** I assume you always top off CMC as you pump clutch pedal?
Then as a last resort, I'd try what I suggested before (quoted below)
Before you do that, try bleeding the clutch fluid with the slave cylinder removed and the bleeder pointing up. Meaning the bleeder valve is at the highest point of the slave cylinder.
How much fluid did you use to bleed the system tonight?
Attach a plastic tube while you’re bleeding so that you’ll see the air bubbles coming out.
Please let us know how it goes
- Attach a hose to bleeder screw and suspend hose in a container of brake fluid.
- Make sure there's adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose
- Refill clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
*** I assume you always top off CMC as you pump clutch pedal?
05-15-2018, 12:45 PM
#15
Dang so sorry to hear that. No bubbles came out the reservoir when you were pushing the piston in?
Then as a last resort, I'd try what I suggested before (quoted below)
Maybe try this too. This is what the service manual says on how to bleed the clutch:
- Attach a hose to bleeder screw and suspend hose in a container of brake fluid.
- Make sure there's adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose
- Refill clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
*** I assume you always top off CMC as you pump clutch pedal?
Then as a last resort, I'd try what I suggested before (quoted below)
Maybe try this too. This is what the service manual says on how to bleed the clutch:
- Attach a hose to bleeder screw and suspend hose in a container of brake fluid.
- Make sure there's adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose
- Refill clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
*** I assume you always top off CMC as you pump clutch pedal?
05-17-2018, 03:16 PM
#17
05-18-2018, 05:17 AM
#19
Any blue color brake/clutch fluid available? Would like a contrasting color to what's in the system now to determine when gravity is bringing the fresh fluid down to the cylinder(s). I suspect, though, that the oil fluid will be dark and dirty like it looks in the reservoirs.
Amount of fluid needed? Clutch? Brakes?
-- Chuck
Amount of fluid needed? Clutch? Brakes?
-- Chuck
05-18-2018, 06:46 AM
#20
ATE blue was banned for the silly reason that automotive fluid colors should be consistent for identification purposes or something.
So you can no longer get blue. But regular amber ATE is still a great fluid. You can still usually see a color transition from old, darker, dirty fluid to more clear stuff. Its just much harder to detect.
So you can no longer get blue. But regular amber ATE is still a great fluid. You can still usually see a color transition from old, darker, dirty fluid to more clear stuff. Its just much harder to detect.