Performed a gravity bleed on my clutch according to this tutorial https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br...method-993927/

...something however didn't make sense...

I ran the whole 1L bottle of ATE Typ 200 through and still had a massive amount of bubbles coming out, eventually I had to stop because I used up all the fluid I had.

From my observations, the volume of air coming from the line matched the volume of fluid I flushed through and this is what left me shaking my head.

I did get very notchy shifting from 1st to 2nd when cold and, no surprise, still do after the bleed. (Clutch rod free-play has already been removed, transmission fluid just recently changed with Honda MTF3)

The gravity bleed procedure isn't rocket science but I am open to acknowledge any errors I might have made and open for any tips or hints where I might have messed up.

MY: EU 2004 (F20C)
90.000km (~57k miles)

 

I had same issue...i started catching the clean fluid just so i dont waste it and i could keep topping it up over and over... and must have run in thru at least 2L worth.
Anyway gave up and clutch/shifting was also notchy... so also did the 'zero play' pedal adjustment as per billman and second gear is like butter now.... so maybe ignore the bubbles.

 

Try Again but just crack the bleeder and catch the fluid with a cup, don't use any tube. The air is likely coming through the threads at the nipple

 

I'd go one step further, remove the slave, and point the bleeder straight up then gravity bleed from tube to bottle half filled with brake fluid. You should only crack the bleeder open just enough to allow fluid to flow out, about half a turn. After you're done, pump that clutch pedal several times(100x) with the cap open.

 

This works great. I didn't pump the clutch pedal with the cap open though and mine worked fine.