Clutch replacement help
Hey guys.. My brother wore out the clutch on his S2K. He's asking me to do it, but before I get dirty, I was wondering what to look for when changing the clutch. I've done several clutches before, but this time due to school, I'll be working on a limited time. I would rather know what to look for ahead of time, and any tips and tricks related to the S2K. On my 240 for example.. the transmission needs to be rotated 180 before removal. So any tips ahead of time.. I would appreciate. Btw.. stock 2005, no mods planned for the future what so ever.
Also.. Any clutch recommendations? I've always been an Exedy fan until my Hyper single blew at 8k, and Exedy turned their backs on me.
-Bart
Also.. Any clutch recommendations? I've always been an Exedy fan until my Hyper single blew at 8k, and Exedy turned their backs on me.
-Bart
Read the service manual first. It is no small task to do without a lift. You have to drop the motor 3" on the sub frame to get the top three bolts. You also have to remove the ALT to get to one bolt on the starter that holds the bell housing.
The OEM clutch is an Exedy. The ACT PP, ACT Flywheel and OEM disk is a great combo. I run it in my track car, and something about the same in my street car.
The OEM clutch is an Exedy. The ACT PP, ACT Flywheel and OEM disk is a great combo. I run it in my track car, and something about the same in my street car.
Also be careful when removing the upper starter bolt...when using an extension to reach it, it's very easy to hit the knock sensor. The plug on the knock sensor is fragile and easily breaks if hit. If the plug breaks, the car will start throwing a code in a short amount of time.
As far as tilting the motor, you'll probably need to pull the header to do that trick. And I wouldn't be surprised if the base of the shifter would be an obstacle. But give it a shot and let us know how it goes.
As far as tilting the motor, you'll probably need to pull the header to do that trick. And I wouldn't be surprised if the base of the shifter would be an obstacle. But give it a shot and let us know how it goes.
Originally Posted by dj_sunrise,Dec 8 2008, 09:33 PM
Drop the motor three inches? mind elaborating? I usually just loosen the motor mounts, tilt the front of the motor, pull on the back. Anyone else do this?
-Bart
-Bart
In short, the front sub-frame has 4 realy long bolts (each corner) and two short bolts (In the Center on each side). Remove the short bolts and loosen the long bolts 3". This will lower the front sub-frame enough to allow you to get to the top three tranny bolts and clear the firewal with the bell housing.
There's not enough clearance between the valve cover and the firewall to tilt the motor back enough to reach the top 3 bell housing bolts. You have to lower the subframe to reach them. Once lowered, you will need about 30 inches of extension on a breaker bar to reach the top 2
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