Use 2 long probers behind the pulley to "walk" it off the crankshaft.

Hitting the pulley's edge with a hammer is usually guaranteed to break it.

 

If the bolt wasn't installed tight enough (125 lb. ft. or more) or if there was too much clearance between the crank and the vibration damper (~0.001" or more) or too much clearance between the crank key and the keyway in the pulley (~0.003" or more), the pulley/damper may have friction welded itself to the crank.

The continuous oscillation (+/- 0.003 degrees or more) of the pulley on the crank causes heat to build up and eventually they weld themselves together. When you finally do get the pulley off look for pitting on the crank. This is a sure sign of metal transfer due to friction welding.

Loctite makes a liquid "shaft repair" /retaining compound (Loctite #603 for shaft to hub clearance of less than 0.004") that you might want to use if this problem did occur.

I hope this helps.


Greenlight

 

Ya, the pulley is broken so I'm going to have to buy another one from comptech or buy an OEM one and have it tapped for the screws.

 

Use a three jaw style puller, it pulls from the outside of the pulley..

Ive never had luck using a puller and the threaded holes, the bolts are usually too small and have a tendemcy to break.