DIY: Spring and Shock Installation
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Joined: Feb 2007
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Originally Posted by S2Koupe,Oct 15 2007, 10:41 AM
instead of standing on the suspension, i use the "HUNTEREZ" method. stick a long pole in the suspension to leverage it down and SIT on it... lol. it works. puts you in perfect position to feed the bolt and wrench it on too. just dont have TOO much fun... 
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Connecticut
yea, that should work. But I wouldn't say that is easier. It took me about a minute per side in the rear to pry the control arm/shock combo into place and slide the bolt through.. and I was doing it all by myself.
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From: Gurenderu
Originally Posted by v2deLsoL,Nov 14 2007, 01:44 AM
can't you just remove the rear sway bar bushing bolts?
so when the spring and shock is on, how do you get the swaybar to meet the lower control arm again? you didnt solve anything. just made it harder.
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Bumpstop hijack-
Cutting the bumpstop is a very bad idea for a street car. That little portion acts as a secondary spring, which provides additional bottoming resistance for a big hit. The non-AX konis can be soft in compression and make this even worse. Even with the .75-1" drop, leaving the stop together is the better plan.
Many people don't even notice this, but with cut bumpstops the spring curve gets really steep as the bounce goes up, leading to more snap oversteer.
The best plan is to get celastos from Ground Control or any decent race shop and you can skip half of the drilling. These pups can be cut to fit, have a controlled taper and density (think progressive spring rate), have BETTER rebound characteristics, and meet SCCA stock!!!).
Cutting the bumpstop is a very bad idea for a street car. That little portion acts as a secondary spring, which provides additional bottoming resistance for a big hit. The non-AX konis can be soft in compression and make this even worse. Even with the .75-1" drop, leaving the stop together is the better plan.
Many people don't even notice this, but with cut bumpstops the spring curve gets really steep as the bounce goes up, leading to more snap oversteer.
The best plan is to get celastos from Ground Control or any decent race shop and you can skip half of the drilling. These pups can be cut to fit, have a controlled taper and density (think progressive spring rate), have BETTER rebound characteristics, and meet SCCA stock!!!).
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From: Gurenderu
Originally Posted by v2deLsoL,Nov 14 2007, 01:50 PM
I removed the bolts on the bushing not the linkage. i did this in under 10 minutes and that's taking my time. just another method... that's all. never liked forcing things into place.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Lawrenceville, GA
Oh lord, I was out last night installing my coilovers to test the ride height and when I was trying to reinstall the stock rear shock, I had the shittiest time!
I was working by myself and well.. after much profane language and a bent tire iron, I finally got it on.
Next time.. I'll be installing my coilovers and never looking back!!
URRGG!
Also, when you're dropping the rear shocks, does it just slide out if you drop both shocks at the same time?
I only unbolted one side (pass.) and it was pinched in there so I had a tough time doing it myself.
I was working by myself and well.. after much profane language and a bent tire iron, I finally got it on.
Next time.. I'll be installing my coilovers and never looking back!!
URRGG!
Also, when you're dropping the rear shocks, does it just slide out if you drop both shocks at the same time?
I only unbolted one side (pass.) and it was pinched in there so I had a tough time doing it myself.
