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If you have been doing your research, you will have read that people have encountered issues with the nut that is welded onto your KONI shocks. Either it's the wrong thread pitch, the wrong size, or just welded on crooked.
Yesterday I ran into this issue with my Front Passenger Koni. So as many before me, I cut the nut off the Koni with a Dremel cutting wheel.....
If you have to do the same, you will probably need to find a new nut to work with your stock bolt. The good news is that your Honda Dealer may have it in stock!
Craig over at Classic Honda helped me locate the following nut with Honda part number: 90213-SJ6-004
It fits perfectly! Well at least it does on my 2004 AP2
Also, when you're dropping the rear shocks, does it just slide out if you drop both shocks at the same time?
I only unbolted one side (pass.) and it was pinched in there so I had a tough time doing it myself.
yeah it matters because of the swaybar. if you have just one side lifted and the other on theground, the otherside will push the lifted side up, not letting you pull the shock out. best to lift the whole rear when doing suspension.
Followed this verbatim-ish today and I got everything installed. Drilling out all the holes for the larger Koni shafts was a bitch though for real.. just like the OP that was the longest part of the day for me. The problem I ran across with one of my rears was that the welded nut on the bottom of the shock was welded on crooked :-/ anyway I stripped it so now I have to cut it off and just get a regular nut for the bolt I guess. Car handles quite nice on stock springs and on the lower rung for the spring seat.
I used a rubber hammer.. put the assembly upside down in a vice and just bang the hell out of it. probably could use a regular hammer and slightly less force though.. keep in mind it's been compressed down for years under the load of the cars weight.. it takes more than just elbow grease.
Just changed my stock springs to H&R lowering springs.
Took me maybe 20-30minutes per wheel.
I did not unbolt or move the fuel pipe from the fuel hatch. I just used hex sockets with extenders. Very easy mod. I didn't even have to use the spring compression tools much. The last one I did without it.
i want to thank you for this write up.. to think i almost spent $300 to have someone lower my car .. the back of the car was real easy since i had no one to help me i used a cut up 2 - 2x6 boards and stock jack .. took like 15 min each rear here is a pic
you really don't have to lower it much but it makes it a lot easier to take out and then align it back in...my spring install
BTW when you move the fuel line you don't have to put a rag... you can just use your gas cap
.. the back of the car was real easy since i had no one to help me i used a cut up 2 - 2x6 boards and stock jack .. took like 15 min each rear here is a pic