Did a video of how I did mine - should fill in some gaps.

Please bear in mind that I was one handed and this was one take

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YguimOCYCqY
Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXZoSCjd_LQ
Part 3 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpHzez2IzsI
Part 4 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwjbGPYGlyo

 

so is it recommended to replace all the retainers just in case (especially if you are not the original owner)? honda automotive parts lists the retainers as being 2.58 each and if valve cotter things are 1.73.

16 valve retainers = $41.28
16 valve cotters = $27.68

or $68.96 to replace both

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...ALVE-ROCKER+ARM

 

The AP1 retainer issue only affects the intake valves, so everything I read here indicates you only need 8 retainers.

Apparently, the cotters come as singles and there are two cotters on each valve.

So (AFAIK) - to do the intake side only, you need:

8 valve retainers
16 valve cotters

 

After completing my valve adj this weekend, I want to add some pointers to this thread that will make the job 5 times easier for the novice. Skipping to the actual adjustment part where you have the valve cover off and are ready to get to work...

Not sure if this is mentioned already, but you only need to turn the crank TWICE for this job. Line up the cam gears for the first turn which will put #1 @ TDC and adjust those first. After that...I don't remember the other cyls you can do at this point, but to make it as plain and simple as possible - if the cam lobes are not in contact with the rockers, you can adjust them. You will be able to adjust 8 valves at a time. Trust me. For the second set, just turn the crank until the cam gears are 180 out from first turn (TDC for cyl 1) and adjust the other 8.

This next part will save you SO much time it isn't even funny. You don't need the funky specialized tools to adjust things right the first time. Here's what worked for me:

Crack open the retainer nut with your 10mm ratchet. Loosen the adjusting nut with the screwdriver 4 or 5 turns. Take your feeler (the clearance you're aiming for) and stick it in place and move it back and forth slightly with one hand while tightening the adjusting nut with the screwdriver until the feeler is unable to move. This is where patience and know how come into play. At the point, the difference between too much and too little drag can be described by viewing the adjusting nut/retainer nut assembly in hours like on a clock. For example, you may have the screw pointed at 12/6 o clock and the screw won't move but then you move it counterclockwise to 11/5 o clock and its loose again. You have to find the amount of drag you want by slowly turning and feeling your way through it which I found came in hourly adjustments. Once you find it, take note of what 'hour' your screw is pointed at. Now, to tighten the adjusting nut back up, turn your screw back approx ONE HOUR COUNTERCLOCKWISE from where you found your sweet spot. Then, tighten the nut back up with your ratchet...you'll see that the screw moved clockwise back to its original sweet spot you found. Test and make sure the drag is where you want it and move on. No messing with box wrenches or funky tricks with two gauges...this worked splendidly for me.

Another thing - be sure to clean off the oil from the retainer nut and the socket on your wrench before you attempt to break the nuts loose. The first one I did I stripped some material off the nut because it kept slipping because of the leftover oil. After I cleaned everything off, they broke loose very easy the first time out.

Do not overtq these things. I didn't use a tq wrench on them but the spec calls for 14ft lbs. Just use common sense and don't go he man on it and you'll be fine.

Hope this helps.

 

Nice info spectacle What interval does Honda recommend to adjust the valves?

 

i know of someone that broke the retainers on the exhaust side...

imo, if you're going to do the intake retainers, might as well get the exhaust ones done too

 

^ From that answer I'm certain you've never done a retainer replacement...

I'd love to see pics of the exhaust-side failure. Do you have any first-hand knowledge as to how it happened?

 

I did mine 1, 4, 3,2, made sure the cams were pointing in the right direction on each adjustment. The original post doesn't mention how to line up the timing marks for subsequent cylinders, there are timing marks pointing in different directions when you go to other cylinders after cyl 1, you just need to figure out how they work. Unfortunately I can't list it here without seeing the engine exposed again. You also take the slant of the engine in mind when lining up the timing marks on the other 3 cylinders.

Removing the spark plugs makes things much easier, and less chance of moving the crank bolt if you are worried about it getting loose, I can't see it happening but extra insurance that it doesn't

One tip, I always lube the camshaft lobes of each cylinder and cam before I move the cam gears, and I also dab some oil on the timing chain. I use an oil squirter to distribute oil on the cams and timing chain during the procedure and after each cylinder adjustment. May as well keep things lubed as best as possible during the procedure rather than turn the cams while on the dry side.

 

it's my brother in-law's car...

 

i don't like the "hourly" method of the sweet spot moving back one hour and moving forward one hour because in my experience it never moves forward the same amount for the different valves...

some move, some don't move, some move a lot, some move a little.

special tool for me.