E-BRAKE light stuck on
i have a 00 ap1 129,000 miles and my brake dash light is on, all my lights work, and there is sufficeint fluid in the reservoir, my top will not go down unless the ebrake is up, but if i unplug the fluid level sensor the light will go out. so i beleive i need a replacement sensor.
well i called honda and they dont show a replacement for it w/o buying the whole master cylinder. i know some people on here have had this problem and i wanted to know how they fixed it and where they got the replacement part.
thanks.
well i called honda and they dont show a replacement for it w/o buying the whole master cylinder. i know some people on here have had this problem and i wanted to know how they fixed it and where they got the replacement part.
thanks.
If it's your e-brake light, then check to see if anything metal is contacting or blocking the cable underneath your center console. I've seen it happen where stuck coins will cause this. Easy check before doing the more complicated stuff.
He already told us. The light goes out when he unplugs the float switch on the reservoir. He has a stuck float or the switch is bad. Try seeing if you can get the float to come up off the bottom by flicking at it. If the float has a hole in it, and is flooded, you may have no choice but to get another master cylinder. Maybe you can find one in the junk yard and see if you can disassemble it and get just the float out to replace yours. Again, see if the float is at the top of the reservoir or stuck down.
Originally Posted by orange_chicken,Jun 25 2008, 03:14 PM
Well look on the bright side, you can put your top up now without having to pull the e-brake 

I have a "sinking" float as well. Occasionally I have to remove the cap and take a small flat head screwdriver and reach under the float to help it back up. The float runs in a little track that you can see as a notch in the float.
There isn't much of a "fix" for this issue between the few of us that have posted about it. Some have elected to wire /strap the float in the "up" position. Othersw have disconnected the float switch. Since it doesn't happen that often, I just pop the hood....open the cap....and lift it up manually with the screwdriver.
One item of note I saw was that it happens less (only once now) after replacing the brake flid with a fresh batch. I have no scientific basis for why, but a guess would be that the older fluid had absorbed enough moisture to affect the buoyancy of the fluid??? Just a guess. All I know is it seems to have stopped and was a regular issue before doing the service.
-Hockey
There isn't much of a "fix" for this issue between the few of us that have posted about it. Some have elected to wire /strap the float in the "up" position. Othersw have disconnected the float switch. Since it doesn't happen that often, I just pop the hood....open the cap....and lift it up manually with the screwdriver.
One item of note I saw was that it happens less (only once now) after replacing the brake flid with a fresh batch. I have no scientific basis for why, but a guess would be that the older fluid had absorbed enough moisture to affect the buoyancy of the fluid??? Just a guess. All I know is it seems to have stopped and was a regular issue before doing the service.
-Hockey
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