Just changed the original KYB end links in my 2003 S2000 @ 75,000mi.


The muted clunk from the front and rear when going over bumps is gone. Now it is just a thump/thud of the tires.

Here are some tips to help in replacing end-links:

1. You can do the rear without removing the wheels, the front needs the wheel removed.

2. The end-link nuts have a smaller diameter at the tip thus locking them to the threaded stud as they turn in.

3. Because of the locking taper of the nut, any rust on the old threads will seize the nut when removing. The best preparation for removal of nuts is:
- use a 2" dia brass wire wheel on a drill to remove all rust from the threads (a hand wire brush is ok but the drill will take it to shiny metal)
- spray PB blaster on threads and on front and back side of nut.. you can also put antiseize on the threads to help too.
- clean 5mm hex hole in end of threaded stud and put hex key in and out to full depth. This cleaning and depth check will prevent stripping the hex hole when you start turning.
- Turn the nut with socket or box end wrench to break the nut/swaybar interface (this is not loosening the nut... just breaking any corrosion bond to swaybar... the nut may start to unscrew if you are lucky.
- take your time to clean up and lube the nut and threads before applying a lot of pressure, it will make removal easy.
- Use a long hex key to apply torque (short hex keys can be extended with a small pipe or box end wrench)
- When loosening the nut, turn it and then back off (repeat) to keep threads clean and lubed...like tapping a hole, do not keep turning out if you feel the nut binding.

4. If the nut is stuck or the hex hole is stripped or you broke a tool or something do this:
- pry the ball cover part of the end link off the ball
- wipe the grease off the ball and use a quality vise grip to lock onto the shaft between the ball and the sway bar. Use a ratchet to remove the nut.

5. For tightening the front lower nut on the new end-link (where a box end wrench just won't go) use a flat screw driver and jam it between the flange on the back side of the end link where the thread starts and the control arm. When you get the flat in this spot, twist the screwdriver to apply back pressure against the end link (it will prevent the threaded stud from turning while tightening the nut with a deep socket).


I used Deeza End links. They seem OK but bigger "pots" that come close to the strut housing than the smaller original KYB's.

 

This should go into the FAQ!

One thing I would like to add:
If you happen to have an extra flanged nut (of the same size.. but that's obvious I guess) you can screw that on the cleaned thread - flange first - with some lube.
The nut will act like a bit like a thread die and clean it up even more.

Never ever attempt to remove end links without doing what blue280z posted!

2 years ago I replaced both front end links.
I used plenty of Neverzees - you can't use too much.
So this Thursday I wanted to install my new front sway bar and I figuered I could just undo the nuts - I used Neverzees before .. right?
Well.. No Way!
Almost busted a 2 year old endlink.

Preperation = succes.
All other = FAIL!