Hey thanks for the input but no I'm not having a coolant issue. I was low because I didn't rebleed and refill after an intake swap and iac cleaning. I didn't do a leakdown test because I never taken the valve cover off and am a little nervous to damage any seals. The car is at honda right now so hopefully I get some good news. I will post an update when they tell me what it is

 

So they are claiming I may need a new MAP sensor. When I replaced mine I used a duralast one which did nothing. The tech is sayin Hondas MAP sensor is updated is this true. Also according to the MAP TSB my vin number does not fall in with the 05 vin numbers. Does this matter. Also they are trying to charge 260 for a New one

 

the "update" is a ziptie...take your MAP sensor off, clean it with brake clean or electrical cleaner and the connector, re connect it and put a ziptie arounf the sensor so the plug is snug against the sensor and see if that helps

 

DO NOT use brake cleaner, but yes use the electronic cleaner, they are meant for fragile electronics, brake clean will possibly melt the plastic

 

I think the Op mentioned that he already had the zip tie update done by Honda. He's an 05, but I'm not sure what year they rectified that.

I know they do make a maf sensor cleaner. I think it's c&c brand. Not sure if that's ok for the map.

I get a little confused on the correlation between leak down and compression test. Since his comp test passed with flying colors, wouldn't that rule out moving to a leak down, or are there certain scenarios where a comp could be good but a leak down be bad?

I just learned that the opposite can be true when the scoring on the cyl wall is low on the piston, resulting in good leak down and bad comp.


OP, my guess is that the dealer, again, did not do true diagnostics and are just throwing you the most likely scenario based on Honda's repair/success data. Doesn't mean they're wrong though. But that can send you on a costly repair path of throwing parts at it.
Did you bother asking them specifically what data they pulled to make them think it's the map??

I'm sure you're mechanically inclined enough to replace a map. See how much they are on majestic and weigh that against what they're charging. I'm sure they'll wave the diagnostic fee if you let them put on the map, so you have to figure that in too.

 

My map already has the zip tie "update" with the little plastic holder that honda installed a while back when I had my misfire problem.

And to MrT I took the car back from them and will replace the honda map on my own. They want 260 for the part which I can get on majestic for about 60 bucks. And screw in myself. My next question is the TSB for the map here:

http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto...00/a04_073.pdf

If you read There are 2 different part numbers for the MAP. My guess is one part number is for just the MAP while the other is probably for the whole kit (map, zip tie, plastic holder). But it also notes one of them part numbers is a failed part. Could this be a whole new different MAP or just what I was thinking about it being a kit part number.

Also got some new coil packs to pick up from autozone.. Good thing about buying cheap crap it's lifetime guarantee. So I will see if maybe that changes anything.

I'm thinkng of growing a pair of b**** and lifting off my valve cover to check clearences. This my first time opening it..(I've watched a video and seen some DIY on here) anything I should be careful of while lifting off the cover. And what else could I look for besides clearances. Don't know if I will adjust them just kinda want to check them..also might try a leakdown test while it's off. My valves were adjusted maybe. 40-50.000 ( about 2 years) miles ago should I replace the gaskets or will I be ok.

Also anyone no where the iat sensor on a MY05 is

I also want to clarify that when accelerating smoothly the car feels fine it's just WOT it feels like it's accelerating very slow..noticeable in every gear, any condition. My clutch seems to pop back out at me when switching between gears..no noises or grinds tho justs more or so pops up.
But it's not like my rpms are screaming and the car isn't moving, rpms move slowly too so I don't think it's a clutch problem

I get a little buzz from my starter in the morning. But that has happened for a while I always assumed it was just a sticking spring.

I'm in RI so temps here been in the low 20s low 30s


I'm just throwing out all the stupid little things I'm starting to notice that I've been paying more attention.

 

the tsb is just talking about the zip tie "holder" that goes around the map sensor and the map itself. there are no new map sensors as far as i know. i would ask them "why they think you need a new map" did they get funny readings on air/fuel, do you have pending codes stored pointing to map failure, or are they just throwing the "most likely" part at it??

i've never pulled my map out, but i'm pretty sure there is an o-ring where the map seats. you said that honda gave you a new map a few years ago, might wanna check that seal. that's all it would take, a little air seeping in to alter map readings. i can't remember, but didn't you say that you've cleaned the "map to tb" port already?? that could be gunked up again. i think those 2 scenarios are more likely than your map just taking a dump.

i'm assuming you're talking about the seals on your valve cover/spark plugs, i've taken mine off, and so has my mechanic, numerous times with no issues. just be careful and you'll be fine. be prepared to be amazed at the beauty of these motors...they look like a swiss clock maker designed them. i would really suggest that you get someone to help you with your first valve job. checking them is ok, you can at least tell if they're way out of spec, but setting them is a different story. there is a certain drag that you have to know how to feel for, because more than one feeler gauge will fit.

buzz from the starter is a non-issue. my 03 does it every morning when it's 40 or below.

i don't know a damn thing about clutches. i've promised myself at the next needed clutch job that i'm going to man up and tackle it. but even in my ignorance, your clutch popping out is highly concerning. if you have a power loss at wot(heavy load) throughout the rpm band, all gears and at all speeds, your clutch could be a likely candidate for power loss. it is essentially the mediator between your motor and the power that makes it to the shaft/rear diff. you said your motor sounds fine, but i'm assuming it's not as screamy as before...this is another pointer towards clutch/tranny.

let's just focus on your clutch for a bit, can you more deeply explain what you mean by the clutch popping out? does it actually force your foot up, does the shifter pop out, do you feels any vibration in the clutch pedal while it's depressed/not depressed?



i have your answer to all of your problems. you're in RI... take it to billman!! i know it's not the shortest trek, but considering how much time and money this car has cost you... i'd do it in a heartbeat if i where a little closer.

 

So yea I'll try your advise and give the map and passageway a good cleaning. Today I just had my hood open and I notice my throttle cable seems a little loose then I went to press my gas pedal in and there's not the much travel space. I'm gonna tighten it at work tomorrow. It figures I don't have 2 12mm wrenches at home.

And about my clutch it's not shaky no vibrations no noises shifts pretty smooth. It never pops out of gear besides the fact when shifting gears It seems to grab at the last minute and kinda pops it's way up (the pedal). Not a popping noise more like a jack in the box if you can understand what I'm trying to say..and it doesn't do it all the time just sometimes and when it does it's consistent between gears... I hear rattles when my car is idle in nuetral and when I push the clutch in it goes away so i always suspected it was my thowout bearing. And again that's only sometimes. Just started noticing the popping up though.

Billman is located in NY correct. It crossed my mind once or twice to see if he'd like to take a look at it.

 

Yeah, I want to say Long Island. I can't speak for him, but I bet he could diagnose and probably repair it while you wait.