Yup, classic signs of air in coolant.

 

That's what I thought I'm going to rebleed when I get home and see how it goes and then I'll post an update.

 

So I rebleed the coolant today and there was some more air in the system...I just kept a bleeding until no more air came out of the bleeder and I couldn't fit anymore in the radiator. The heat is also hotter when the car is just idling.

I hooked up my OBD scanner again today and notice the car is running lean..it's usually changing between 4.0-7.0 sometimes hits 10.1 in both banks. ...

Seeing how I just replaced my fuel injectors should I replace the FPR also..I don't want the injectors going bad again.

 

Prob a no for the FPR replacement, how does the car drive now, if it drives fine than it should be good to go.....car ran good Ricky bobby

 

It still drives the same..still slow acceleration. Can anyone stick their ear to there fuel pulsation damper and tell me if it sounds like air is running through...mine is kinda loud

 

My car also had a slight barely noticeable hesitation from cruising to WOT it's like a bit of a lag. My issue was coil packs. I read that you changed your coil packs back then and it doesn't seem likely that they'd go bad in 40k miles but it couldn't hurt to switch them out with some known good ones and see if that is the culprit.

 

did you try an idle relearn after you bled the coolant?


like AZ, i don't think it's your fpr, though you may be on the right track... fuel is one of those things can be a little off, affecting performance, but not throwing any codes. and you did do some work to the system as of recent.

in my experience(not specifically with our cars) with diaphragm style pressure regulators, if they go bad that means the diaphragm has torn or either has trash in it. both scenarios would result in higher pressure at the rail and not lower(lean condition) and sometimes leaking at the cap.

if you truly think that there is a problem with fuel pressure, the cheapest way to diagnose is to take the fuel rail to a machine shop and have it tapped so that you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure at the rail, otherwise you're just throwing parts, money and time at it. you could also just buy a thread tapping kit and do it at home. this will also help you rule out the pump and filter sock as possible candidates.


i believe a pulsation dampener is exactly what it sounds like...just a shock absorber really. i may be wrong, but i don't think that it would have a negative affect if it were malfunctioning. also i'm pretty sure that fuel doesn't necessarily flow through it. others would have to chime in to double verify this, i'm a bit too lazy tonight for research, haha.


try this, take the fuel cap off and do an idle relearn. leave the cap off and go driving for a bit. you will eventually throw a code p1456, but you can simply reinstall the cap and clear the code. this will rule out a vacuum/negative pressure in the fuel tank area affecting fuel pump performance. this would be due to a clogged evap canister, or malfunctioning evap system. it's a long shot, but it's easy and free.

 

by the way, don't go off what the helms manual says about how to test fuel pressure...it requires a special banjo fitting at the dampner that is no longer available to the public. tapping the rail is the easiest.

 

I think I'm going to tap Into my fuel rail this weekend...Ill need to pick up a gauge first..and yes I did reset the ecu after bleeding the coolant by removing the back up fuse.. But not sure if I did it right..there are so many different ways I've read to do it. The way I did it was took out fuse..waited about an hour put it back in, let idle for 15 mins, then took it for a ride. I also bought a new gasket today I'm goin to try and see if this HFC will seal up

 

Per the service manual(summarized by me)
-remove back up fuse (a few seconds is long enough)
-reinstall fuse
-turn all accessories off. Dome light, radio, ac, fan, cruise, etc...
-start car and hold at 3k rpm until fan kicks on(car has reached operating temp)
-let car idle for 5 mins. Then you're done.

You might want to let the car warm up for a minute or two prior to doing the relearn. I did mine from a cold start once and the iacv went crazy. Plus it'll minimize the time you have to hold the car at 3k (usually about 5-7 mins from a cold start to Op temp.)