Or so right

 

Great that you seem to have found the problem.
You should de-pin the connector and examine them further to maybe find out the exact cause.

 

I'd be sure to get some dielectric grease in that connector. It seems people seem to have intermittent issues with the wiring not making good contact after they've worked on it, usually after the SOS hardwire. Was the lead fully seated in the connector housing? Perhaps it would be a good idea to depin it, crimp it down a tiny bit with some needlenose pliers, and test fit how snug it is on the male pin of the basket bare, before putting it back into the connector housing. Or do what Deckoz said and replace those connections; you can buy new pins pretty readily.

I mentioned dielectric grease because it seems a poor/intermittent connection causes quite a bit of heat and arcing in that area, which leads to melted housings, which has been seen on more than one occasion. Aftermarket pumps and even the stock pump draw a good amount of current, especially when they start getting hot and the load increases. As long as wire gauge is kept uniform from the battery to the pump there shouldn't be any added heat from resistance. It seems some people actually ditch the connector entirely for the pump power and only use it for the level sender, instead opting to drill holes through the top of the basket and feed the power wires directly through, eliminating that connection. Not the way I'd do it, but it's an option. A lot of OEMS have gone away from dielectric grease for weather and corrosion proofing as the newer sealed connectors seem to work quite well, BUT it also serves a great double duty of preventing arcing and heat buildup from connections that aren't the most snug. You don't NEED to have it in there, but I'd say it's good insurance.

 

Not sure that grease would stay greasy for very long inside the fuel tank

 

Ah, I misread I think. It was off of the pump directly? Weird....That's a pretty sturdy connection that snaps in pretty tight....I made all of my assumption off of the top connector at the housing which seems to be where people have a majority of their issues. I still think it's good insurance to double check that area. If I recall the SOS wiring is 12 or 14 gauge to the battery? Not sure why but it seems like the connector inside of the pump housing uses a wire gauge that's 2 sizes smaller with the SOS kit even....not something I'd do even though that portion is kept cool by fuel, it just seems like unnecessary added resistance. I'd use the same wire thickness from battery directly to the pump.

 

Yeah the factory top connector is a weak point for sure, I think it was the bottom side that seemed loose in this case but not sure.
Either way all the things you mentioned Kyle is worth considering.

 

Yeah it appeared to the be the oem two wire connector between the top plug and the pump that's inside the basket. But I also slightly tweaked the main 12v prong on the top connector when performing that test and didn't think anything of it, but it might have also been a contributor, now making better contact in the top plug. Unfortunately both instances happened during same test interval. All the top plug connector pins look in place and secure though. Either way I think the grease is probably worth doing. I think i'm just going to run the other entire basket I have coming rather then mess/swap the pnp connector, which will be less tampering/chance of creating more connection issues.

Thanks again for the input guys.

 

Nice! Found the issue.
I wonder if well start to see deterioration in these connections being more prevalent.
Maybe potting these connections would work. As a way to avoid disconnection.

 

Well sad to say my problem has surfaced again. Im pretty well convinced its the voltage or ground wire that was poorly re pinned into the factory plug that goes to the fuel pump assy. The snag is they both appear fine visually. My buddy did the job and we didn't have the proper double barrel pliers, however I thought we managed fine. Anyhow rather then re do this, im thinking of bypassing it all together and doing what some have done and drill into the top of the hanger lid and just run those wires direct to the fuel pump. Thinking at this point just bypassing the whole situation seems like the best course of action here. As it is now the car is not trustworthy. Any advice or info on bypassing the plug and running direct to pump as described appreciated. I hate electrical, and don't want to screw this job up to. Tried looking for thread I stumbled upon not that long ago on doing as described, but haven't found.

 

I have the EXACT same problem. Sometimes when it does prime and i can get the car to start, it will usually stay running and be fine. But as soon as i turn the car off it will only prime once every 15 to 20 times i turn the ignition on.

I swapped out a brand new walbro450 pump. I have the sos rewire kit. I can hear all the relays clicking...just no prime. I thought it was a ground issue so moved my ground wire location and car was priming fine. Then all of a sudden stopped working again. Thinking ill find an even better ground location maybe chip the paint off to make better contact.

At this point i feel ive exhausted every option...any progress @s2000Junky