S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Fuse 5 Keeps Popping

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Old 04-09-2019, 03:19 PM
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Default Fuse 5 Keeps Popping

I have a 2002 s2000 and each time I turn it on fuse 5 pops. This disables the soft top, EPS, passenger window, reverse lights and gauge assembly cluster. The first time it happened was a few weeks ago while driving, the gauge cluster went out, I replaced fuse 5 and it worked fine again. I replaced my exhaust a couple weeks ago and the problem popped up again after start up (I did this change in a garage). I went to an auto shop while I was out there to replace the fuse and it popped over and over again after multiple replacements. Each pop took about 1 second.

I got the car home and called a local Honda wiring expert in to take a look. He disconnected the EPS control module and worked a little bit to clean up some wiring the previous owner did for a shift beeper (I have since removed all of this wiring) under the passenger side dash. After we plugged everything back in again to check if the EPS failed, it worked fine. This was about a week ago.

I drove 700 miles straight on a road trip and everything worked fine. I hit heavy rain towards the end of the road trip. I had no issues until I had to slow down to park when suddenly fuse 5 blew again (gauge cluster went out, EPS continued to work). I saw a little bit of water on the EPS after I parked in a garage.

Today I returned to the car to investigate. I disconnected the EPS, dried it out with a hair dryer and a duster. I went back to the car and tried some different connection setups with some new fuses to try to trace the problem. They all blew immediately after turning the car on, quicker than prior.

Wiring modifications done to the car: 3 wires tapped under passenger side to the shift beeper (since removed); amp in the trunk (new wires to the speakers, those are still working fine); tow lines were tapped into the tail-lights. All of these mods were done by the prior owner. I have had the car 5 years and this hadn't popped up before so I think it's something else.

This is not the same as the other fuse 5 thread, I do not shift into reverse to cause this issue. Has anyone seen this before? I suppose right now the better question is does anyone know a Honda electronics expert near Greenville, South Carolina?

Thanks everyone
Old 04-09-2019, 05:07 PM
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Ok, here is what does not make sense to me. The fuse supposedly feeds eps, dash, and the other stuff. But in the most recent episode, after the 700 mile drive partly in rain, the fuse blew, dash went out, BUT EPS KEPT WORKING?

Either the fuse feeds it, or it doesn't. If it still worked wirh blown fuse, its getting power from somewhere else. Is it wired wromg and two circuits are trying to feed it?

Usually the best way to fimd issues with what is blowing a fuse is to try disconnecting things and see if it still blows. If you wait long enough, and it still doesn't blow, whatever you disconnected is the issue (but the trick is, how long is enough)

If it still blows, its one of the things still connected. Process of elimination.
Old 04-09-2019, 05:25 PM
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Yeah, it was about 1 mile from the end of the trip in heavy rain. The EPS worked for me as I pulled in to park it, but then after I started it again it wasn't working. I should have clarified that.

I tried disconnecting parts but I can't practically do that beyond what I know how to disconnect. I do know that it is not the EPS controller though, since the fuse blew despite it not being connected at all. In the other thread the member said that the EPS continued to work after it blew so it's not too unusual. I just can't find what the issue actually is and the other thread didn't answer it since I don't have to shift into reverse to cause the fuse to go.

The nice part about waiting for a fuse to go is that the fuse immediately goes when I turn the car on. The dash flashes for a split second or not at all and that is the signal to me that the fuse failed.

I'm going to disconnect the soft top tomorrow and try again (haven't tried that yet). After that I'm looking for a shop.

Thanks for getting back to me though, I figured this was something nobody would touch with a 40 foot pole.
Old 04-10-2019, 01:15 PM
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Seems like unplugging the soft top control unit should be enough to take it out from using that fuse.



Have you tried unplugging the cluster yet? That wire appears to be used for a couple of functions in the cluster.



Looks like the door lock control unit has a connection to that fuse as well.


Though the issue is not related to using the reverse lights, a break or short before the reverse switch could blow the fuse as well.



I thought it was interesting the passenger power window stopped working as well as it is not on this fuse. I found the soft top control unit actually provides a switched ground for just the passenger window.

Interesting tidbit about the EPS, that fuse feeds switched power to the control unit and eps light, but a separate circuit is used to power the motor. Maybe the 5v provided by the regulator is only used while the system is starting.


If all of this is unplugged and the fuse still blows, you'll likely be looking for a broken yellow wire grounding out somewhere.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Last edited by mikeyds; 04-10-2019 at 01:31 PM.
Old 04-10-2019, 02:06 PM
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did not read thread correctly..

Last edited by noodels; 04-11-2019 at 04:38 AM.
Old 05-01-2019, 09:23 AM
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Turns out it was an electrical short internal to the reverse switch on the transmission housing and all of the wiring is fine. I had the electronics troubleshooting expert out again today and he confirmed that as the problem after about 1 hour of troubleshooting. I live in Tampa and can refer you if you have any electrical problems, this guy is incredible at troubleshooting. Anyway, I can drive it now without wrenching the steering wheel but I wouldn't have reverse lights, which isn't ideal... Now I just have to figure out how to replace that switch and I'm back to good again. Thanks for the response everyone.
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