bruthaboost

Yes, I've used the search exhaustively and it helped for some problems. In particular bleeding the clutch. I was pulling my hair out trying to get that last bit of air out.

On to my problem. So I've swapped out my pp, clutch disc, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, master and slave cylinder, and rubber line (for ss braided). The only thing that isn't new is the flywheel which I had step machined. I've bled the clutch so now it feels like stock, however when I try to get it in gear, I can't. It is as if you were trying to get in gear without pressing the clutch pedal. Of course this occurs while the engine is on.

Okay, so I'm wondering if the release fork is in place. I take off the protective boot and have a look and yep it's in place.

Is the release fork even moving when the clutch pedel is pressed? yep, but not much. If anyone is in the San Antonio area and wouldn't mind dropping by. I'd love to see how much your release fork moves for comparison. Lunch is my treat

I tried adjusting the master cylinder via the jamnut. Nope, didn't help either.

BTW I'm using a clutchnet pp and disk. Thought I'd give them a try and see what happens. I'm running their fiber carbon segmented disk and yup FI is in the future as is the R200 swap (have a diff sitting in the living room-ack is that telling: a car part in the living room?).

Please any help would be incredibly appreciated. I'm at my wits end. I'm about to just have it towed to a tranny shop.

bruthaboost

Update: From some advice from a suby friend, I put a C-clamp on the slave cylinder and compressed it down and then bled the system. After this I checked the system with the c-clamp still on and the pedal was rock solid. So no air in there. *sigh* I'm running out of ideas and may end up dropping the tranny again.

cdelena

Have you looked at adjusting the pedal? I know they say you don't need to do it on hydraulic clutches but it made a world of difference on some cars.

Billman250

Something is causing the disc to drag. I would not rule out air yet.

I've found the only way to get all the air out is to unbolt the slave, tilt it, open the bleeder and let gravity push the air out. The angle is critical, I have a pic of it here somewhere.

SIIK2NR

The release fork!!!!!

Please check the release fork again. It may seem like it's in place but it may in fact not be tensioned.

When you remove the dust cover and play with the release fork is it semi loose? or is it firm?

If it's loose then it means you need to lift it up and back to get it in place.

It could appear to be in place, attached to the slave cylinder and this would be the cause of your problem.

Tim

bruthaboost

Using the C-clamp allows you to actually remove the slave cylinder from the tranny and orientate it however you want (strait up). It also allows you to test for air easily. Once you are done bleeding, closing the screw should result in a rock hard pedal, as in brake bleeding, since you have a clamp on the slave cyl preventing it from expanding. This indeed did happen so no air is left in the system.

I rechecked the fork and it is indeed in place. Is there anyone in the San Antonio area who would be willing to let me look at their S2K?