How to Clean IAC Valve
If coolant leaks out of the IAC valve when it's removed, replacing the valve would then trap an air bubble, possibly compromising coolant circulation. Will I have to bleed the cooling system after doing this cleaning process?
Be careful not to ruin the clamps on the hoses that attach to the IAC. I left all hoses attached (as the DIY shows) when cleaning my IAC, but must have twisted the smaller one enough causing the 70k mile seal to be disturbed and once my cooling system was under pressure I was spraying coolant all over the place. It was an easy fix, I replaced the spring style hose clamps with screw hose clamps and problem solved (besides a painstaking coolant job). If I were to do it again or on a different car I would just take the whole piece off (meaning the two hoses as well) and clean it that way and then replace all the (what I have to imagine are one time use) clamps.
I also second the glasses or rags part. You do not want brake/carb cleaner in your eyes.
I also second the glasses or rags part. You do not want brake/carb cleaner in your eyes.
Plz don't call me retarded, but I can't find the IAC
My car is European '06, and in 9 years i never had to go under the hood, so I'm totally new at this. Since my car is DBW, the IAC is not at the same place as in negcamber's post, so could you please point me in a right direction before i start dismantling everything in a fit of rage


You're not retarded
Your car is drive by wire, and the ecu maintains idle via the throttle body actuator. Hence no need for an idle air control valve. Your throttle cable turns a potentiometer called the accelerator pedal sensor, which sends a signal to the throttle body actuator.
The first picture you posted is the actuator, TPS is on the other side.
Your car is drive by wire, and the ecu maintains idle via the throttle body actuator. Hence no need for an idle air control valve. Your throttle cable turns a potentiometer called the accelerator pedal sensor, which sends a signal to the throttle body actuator.The first picture you posted is the actuator, TPS is on the other side.
You're not retarded
Your car is drive by wire, and the ecu maintains idle via the throttle body actuator. Hence no need for an idle air control valve. Your throttle cable turns a potentiometer called the accelerator pedal sensor, which sends a signal to the throttle body actuator.
The first picture you posted is the actuator, TPS is on the other side.
Your car is drive by wire, and the ecu maintains idle via the throttle body actuator. Hence no need for an idle air control valve. Your throttle cable turns a potentiometer called the accelerator pedal sensor, which sends a signal to the throttle body actuator.The first picture you posted is the actuator, TPS is on the other side.
Thanks
The bolts on the TB proved difficult to undo, even with the WD40. So i just cleaned the TB from the front. Relearned the ECU and all the stuttering and the idling problems dissapeared. Yay!
This is what a TB inlet SHOULDN'T look like, I blame myself for overoiling K&N filter, but after 60K miles in 9 years it was a good idea to clean it anyways.
This is what a TB inlet SHOULDN'T look like, I blame myself for overoiling K&N filter, but after 60K miles in 9 years it was a good idea to clean it anyways.







