IF you run a Mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the car, you MUST use a fuel pressure isolator. It is a major safety issue to have fuel inside the passenger compartment. If you do go to any track event (drag or road course) with a tech inspection you will not be allowed to run.

 

AEM is on the right. To the left you can see where the damper would usually be. This is where the Honda fuel pressure tester connects. That said, it's not available from Honda Aus any more.

 

So we got to connect the Fuel Pressure Gauge in the Tester?

 

You don't got to do anything. It's just a convenient point and Honda provide a tool for it.

But as I said, I couldn't get the tool here so I made a custom gauge to connect to that point to set the fuel pressure.

 

okay now i am even more confuzed......what is a honda fuel pressure tester....wut tool r we talkin about...

 

The actual gauge used by a dealer to check fuel pressure is a different unit form those permanently installed. You can't close the hood with the Honda pressure gauge installed.

 

so if i have the aftermarket one...almost like the b&m.....i would NEED to install it by tapping into the fuel rail and permenantly mounting it?....or is there another option...

 

Drilling a hole and tapping the rail it pretty much your only option. It's either that, or T'ing of the fuel supply hose before it goes to the fuel rail and getting some contraption of pipe fittings to attach the gauge.

Why are you so against tapping the fuel rail?

 

because it is a hassle..i want this to be a bolt on type of thing....and plus if i would like to sell the car later...i dont want shit to be drilled and tapped and blah blah blah....but if i have to i will...can i tap this myself...or is it something i should leave up to someoen else......

 

Are you referring to a remotely mounted FPR like the Comptech set up? Comptech use a fitting that bolts on the fuel rail in place of the FPR and connects via a hose to their FPR. You can fit the gauge or sender inline with the hose.



With regards to drilling and tapping, it's pretty straight forward. You need a drill and a Tap & Dye kit. Just bought one recently myself. But you will have to disassemble the fuel rail and remove it. You also need to make sure it is clean of any debris before reassembly. If you buy a plug or bolt of the same diameter and thread as your gauge fitting then removal will be simply a matter of unscrewing the fitting and screwing in the plug/bolt.

BUT, there is no way in hell I would use anything but a sender and electronic gauge in the cockpit. I'm not running any juices through the firewall but especially not fuel.