I've found at least 3 different part numbers for the coil packs. No clue to the differences although I've read here that the '06 and later DBW cars are unique and some of the earlier parts are interchangeable. But why guess? Get the specified part unless someone like Billman says differently.

-- Chuck

 

Anyone come across Cadic coils? Any experiences or horror stories? I'd rather get OEM of course but just curious about Cadic since I came across them and no surprise they're cheaper than OEM.
http://cadiccanada.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=1908

 

As of today, the OE parts catalog lists the following coil packs for the S2000.

2000-2003 P/N:
30520-PCX-007
~$125 ea.

2004-2005 P/N:
30520-RRA-007 (replaces -RAA-007 and -PNA-007; common with the 2002-2006 RSX hatch, and certain 2007-2011 Accords, Civics, CR-Vs, Elements)
~$63 ea.

2006-2009 P/N:
30520-PZX-007
~$125 ea.

Near as I can tell they are all interchangeable. FWIW, my original PCX-007's burned out in 2009 (along with my '00 ECU); since then I've been using the '04-'05 parts with no issues.

 

Thanks for the numbers. I've found NGK as an alternative in the UK with the same 30520-RRA-007 for the coils. Basically the same price as the Denso coils.

At what mileage did your '00 coils burn out and what symptoms did they exhibit leading up to that?

 

My case was certainly unusual. Mileage was only 48K, but that included over 5K miles on-track, including several 100+degF days at two fast tracks (Cal Speedway & Big Willow). Symptoms were an intermittent misfire, then sudden complete ignition failure one day during my normal commute. The shop tested everything I asked, and swore that both coil packs and ECU were bad -- I was skeptical, but they saved all my old parts for me. Sure enough, I was able to replicate the misfire myself in my driveway, testing back-to-back with A) new coils and old ECU, and then B) old coils and new ECU. Coulda been coincidence, certainly, but I've posted here before about my own pet theory (never proven, I freely admit), which is that as the coils start to go bad, the "learning" ECU tries to drive them harder and harder, and eventually burns out both the coils and itself.

 

If your boosted, the K20 coils listed above are your best/cheapest route.

Skip to 6:34

I personally have Okada Project coils on 7 PSI of boost.

 

HOLY SHIT!!! I hope my ECU is fine! Yours was unusual at only 48k but hey, circumstances vary indeed and yours included high heat with all out track exposure too. Did you get that intermittent puff at idle suddenly but the car drove perfectly with no missing all the way to red line?
I'm gonna get a set of new Denso coils 673-2301 (or is it 3201) from rockauto.com asap. Fortunately my S2K is not my daily...

 

Seen this. I've heard Okada coils yield more power than OEM when boosted. It's just the price for 4 that's as high as some premium exhausts.

 

I would not make the assumption that the PZX coil packs can be replaced with the earlier models. I know that is the case for alternator compatibility. Drive-by-wire vehicles may have more sensitivity to RF interference that wasn't an issue with earlier models. That would explain why Honda would choose to design an entirely new coil pack.

 

Get the Densos that you can find on Amazon, that are made in Japan. Get the 04-05 MY coils if you have an ap1 or an 04-05 s2k. If you have an 06+ then order the ones for your year. Same part as Honda OEM but much less expensive, top quality part for long life. DO NOT get Delphis or any other copy cat part made in China or mexico they have a horrible failure rate. You do not want to get stuck on the road with a bad coil, too important of a part to cheap out.

I run NGK Iridium IX series plugs as I like the tapered ground electrode and fine wire center electrode. But I am confident in my ability in setting the proper gap without damaging the plug, many people can't seem to do that so they should buy the oem plugs that are pre-gapped.