Sounds like a good match . Post up your opinion after you get it back on the road.

 

yeah I will be on it!

 

Billman, can you describe technique needed for 1-2 shift with lighter flywheel? Is it just shifting faster?

I have an AP2, and have to shift slower/more deliberately than I'd prefer to get a smooth shift, which I've attributed to heavier flywheel, based on my understanding after reading other threads here on this subject.

Also, why just the 1-2 shift? I would have thought all shifts would equally affected by lighter flywheel (meaning just as easy to fall out of VTEC in other gears).

 

The ratio between gears isn't constant.
1st: 3.133
2nd: 2.045
3rd: 1.481
4th: 1.161
5th: 0.943
6th: 0.763
Secondary gear reduction: 1.208
Final drive: 4.100
Reverse: 2.800

If you divide one number by the next you'll see that between you'll see that the ratio is:
1-2:1.5320293399
2-3:1.3808237677
3-4:1.2756244617
4-5:1.2311770944
5-6:1.2359108781

 

1st to second has the largest ratio difference of the gearset. This means you'll be marginal to fall out of VTEC due to the car losing speed faster between a gearchange with the 8lbs flywheel.

Other gears are closer so you don't lose as many revs.

 

It's also why a 2-1 money shift is much worse than a 4-3 misshift, aside from that no one redlines it in fourth...

 

The car isn't going to lose speed faster with a lighter flywheel. When you have the clutch pushed in, the clutch has no effect on car momentum (other than the tiny difference in overall car weight).

The reason you are "more likely to fall out of VTEC" with a lighter flywheel is just that with a heavier flywheel, you are more likely to re-engage the next gear before the revs are matched, so you slip as you enter second gear, keeping the revs higher and in VTEC (at the expense of clutch life). A lighter flywheel is more likely to be properly rev-matched when you enter 2nd gear, and if you didn't shift right at the redline, being rev-matched will have you below VTEC in 2nd. The easy solution is Flashpro to widen the VTEC window.

 

If you just change the wording of what nexus said from 'car losing speed' to 'engine losing speed', his response is consistent with your more thorough explanation. I think that is what he meant, it was just a typo.

Thanks guys for the explanation of why technique for 1-2 is the only that has to be modified for lighter flywheel. Makes total sense. So what is the technique? Just shift faster? Anything special to it?

It seems like lighter flywheel, flashpro, a better Cat, and Gernby remote tune would be a killer combo that is still stock appearing and sounding and will pass emissions (including visual inspection) and still be good for DD duty. Thoughts?