I would say given the sound, lack of power, compression #s, and the fact that it was just worked on and did not make that sound before it was worked on, it has to be something the mechanic did. I would have been back there first sound like that, just my $.02

 

Alrightt thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it. I actually did take the car back as soon as I heard the noise, and he said it seemed to be coming from the head. He did say if it was the block he'd take responsibility though. Since the compression test points to the block I'll ask him to check it out and see what he says.

 

Soo, the mechanic said he did not disassemble the head because there was no noise coming from there when he diagnosed it. He basically says he can't do anything about it.

Sigh what are some of my options right now? New longblock? Engine?

 

Are you sure you want that mechanic to work on your car again? What ever it is he should have fixed it the first time.

 

ok so the mechanic said he'll take responsibility for it if it's the block, however he won't take the head off to check the cylinders nor will he pull the oil pan to check for shavings.. that's not right IMO.... He needs to check the whole thing not just the head.

 

Yeah, what a crap mechanic. I cannot see what a sound like that would ever come from in the head, it is not fast enough.

 

Honestly I think it isn't right that he isn't willing to open it up and check out what is wrong either.

Basically he said the only way it would be something to do with the crank or rods is if there is something with the number 2 rod(the one i spun a bearing on) that could not be seen, even with careful measuring. Or that there was wear on the other side of the rods where it connects to the pistons, an area of the engine he did not have access to unless he removed the head and pistons. And he said the wear is not evident because the second noise appeared 1000 miles later.

He's basically saying he only took the engine apart enough to figure out where the rod knock was coming from. He didn't diassemble the whole engine. To find potential damages to other parts of the engine. What do you guys think about that?


By the way, the noise has progressed into a loud rattle when i'm lightly on the throttle or when i let off to shift. It's loudest and most surface when i'm barely on the throttle cruising around town. It's like a trailing rattle. It sounds very surface and not a deep deep knock, but it's loud as ####. Upon cold startups it rattles super loud for a second or two then goes away. I hear it again when i go past like 2k and when the car is warm at idle.

What could this be, and what should I do? Should I keep insisting for him to take it apart? I kind of get the feeling he doesn't want to, and I don't want someone that doesn't want to work on my car to work on my car.

 

Oh i see, so pretty much he pulled the crank outta the engine, sent it for machining, and slapped it right back... I can't guess on whether he measured and inspected everything else or not... now if this was done with the engine on the car.. Hmm.. very sloppy work IMO.

At this point I'd either take it somewhere else for further inspection or simply slap a short block on there....

 

A shortblock would definitely be cheaper than a longblock, but how do I know that's going to completely solve my problem. So the sound isn't fast enough for it to be a problem with the head?

 

Okay so the engine officially died. The clanking started getting REALLY bad and eventually just sounded like there was a metal object flying around in my engine. The car would stall when I clutch in above 2k, and is basically undrivable right now.

Thanks for all you guys' help, but looks like I'm going to need a new engine. I'm considering just buying a f20c longblock with no accessories, and bolting my old stuff on the new engine. Any downsides to this? Is it much more work?