Light knocking noise
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From: Bay Area
Originally Posted by RedY2KS2k,Dec 9 2009, 09:32 PM
I'm familiar with crankshafts that have been "ground" but not with "crowned." I still don't understand your terminology.
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From: Charlotte NC
Originally Posted by marcucci,Dec 9 2009, 08:31 PM
You should point out that he's a complete moron.
Ask him what the bearing clearances were. I don't even know what a crank 'crowning' is, but if it's like polishing, the bearing clearances need to be set. If he's worth his mettle as a mechanic, he kept notes on it and can tell you. If he just says it was "in spec" then I personally think he is lying.
The first thing he needs to do is pull your motor and tear it down. The only problem I see is that if he did such a crap job on your motor I would not trust him to change you plugs, let alone pull the motor again. At this point I would probably find a good mechanic to do a proper diagnosis and repair, then present that to him along with the bill. If he balks then you can take him to small claims or at least seek arbitration from the BBB or the court.
The noise sounded to me like TCT at idle, but rod knock or piston slap at higher RPMs. I'm guessing you will find the "repaired" bearing shot, or possibly the cylinder wall scored. When a bearing goes, that piston & wall usually go, and a bore & hone with oversized piston are required. By nature, unless the engine was new, when you rehone the cylinder you usually run out of piston-to-wall clearance spec and have to go oversized on the piston.
You should NEVER re-ring a used cylinder/piston in an FRM block.
An FRM block has to be rehoned SPECIFICALLY to the Honda procedure.
If the cylinder-to-wall clearance spec was out of spec (most rebuilders CANNOT hold Honda's tolerance) you will hear a "rattling" noise, that's mild piston slap. You get it at .005 or .006 or greater clearances in honda FRM blocks.
At this point I'd find someone good to diagnose the motor and see if anything is rebuildable. If you can find a good motor to swap, that's great, but it's hard to do. Usually they will have issues and rebuilding makes more sense or costs about the same. A proper rebuild, though, will be as good as a new motor.
Ask him what the bearing clearances were. I don't even know what a crank 'crowning' is, but if it's like polishing, the bearing clearances need to be set. If he's worth his mettle as a mechanic, he kept notes on it and can tell you. If he just says it was "in spec" then I personally think he is lying.
The first thing he needs to do is pull your motor and tear it down. The only problem I see is that if he did such a crap job on your motor I would not trust him to change you plugs, let alone pull the motor again. At this point I would probably find a good mechanic to do a proper diagnosis and repair, then present that to him along with the bill. If he balks then you can take him to small claims or at least seek arbitration from the BBB or the court.
The noise sounded to me like TCT at idle, but rod knock or piston slap at higher RPMs. I'm guessing you will find the "repaired" bearing shot, or possibly the cylinder wall scored. When a bearing goes, that piston & wall usually go, and a bore & hone with oversized piston are required. By nature, unless the engine was new, when you rehone the cylinder you usually run out of piston-to-wall clearance spec and have to go oversized on the piston.
You should NEVER re-ring a used cylinder/piston in an FRM block.
An FRM block has to be rehoned SPECIFICALLY to the Honda procedure.
If the cylinder-to-wall clearance spec was out of spec (most rebuilders CANNOT hold Honda's tolerance) you will hear a "rattling" noise, that's mild piston slap. You get it at .005 or .006 or greater clearances in honda FRM blocks.
At this point I'd find someone good to diagnose the motor and see if anything is rebuildable. If you can find a good motor to swap, that's great, but it's hard to do. Usually they will have issues and rebuilding makes more sense or costs about the same. A proper rebuild, though, will be as good as a new motor.
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Yeah, I really don't think this guy knew what he was doing. My budy has a great shop, I take everything to him that I cannot handle. Engines that are rebuilt (what your's HAD to have happen to make it run right). Everything is apart, on a table and getting very closely measured and analyzed before reassembled, that is just the way things need to be with a job like this. For him to try to do eveything and still keep the engine in the car and pretty much assembled, would never work. If he knows how to tighten lug nuts he should know this.
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Bay Area
Thanks for all the advice and concerns everybody. He did indeed take the engine out of the car, but he says he did not pull of the head to inspect it, yet he blames the engine failure on a potential problem in the head. I know, it doesn't add up to me either.
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