rip_ej1

FilthPig, any updates on your issues? I'm have the same problem on my car, code P0301.

sokdo

I had the dreaded misfire during idle like most of u.

Conditions: 50k miles on engine weekend car not driven hard
started off misfire 1399 then variations on what cylinder came on first then spread to all cylinders then became consistant cyl 4. Had a buddy with same year s2 an switched injectors. New plugs. Switched coil packs and map. Finally did a valve adjustment and #4 was tight on the exhaust valve possibly stuck open but It was tight. This did the trick.

My advice after this ordeal is do compression check first before anything if you've already done the simple checks like plugs and switching parts. I swore it was injectors like most of you but that wasn't my problem. I don't drive my car hard so this was a suprise that one valve could throw misfire codes for all cylinders and I also did have occasional few seconds of cel blinking for a few seconds at idle at stops. Seems like it gradually got worse the more I drove it. I did have occasional puffing during idle to.

To sum it all up reading hours of misfire threads is that this problem with misfire with my conditions is that it the main way to solve this problem is injectors or valve job or coil packs.

Very relieved at this point that I finally solved it.

sokdo

Now I passed smog. Woohoo. I'm happy now.
Learned so much about obdII during this fiasco and a lot about my car.

FilthPig

Well the CEL still is coming back...same codes 300, 301, 302. It also seems it's running worse while cold...very slowly getting worse the more I drive it... once it's warmed up it runs pretty good.

Reading sokdo's post helps convince me I really need to do the valve adjustment next...especially given my compression numbers. I've been putting it off but I really need to get a gasket set and adjust the valves. So that's next...maybe weekend after this coming one I'll make time. I hope that will fix it.

sweetdill

I don't understand why a valve adjustment isn't the very first thing people do when their car isn't running optimally, especially if the problem got worse steadily...

I'm thinking that if your rockers are bottomed out on your valves, then your valves might be the teeniest bit open, this would affect your numbers if you do a compression check, so, if you're gonna do a compression check, and you want to be able to count on the results, you should make sure your valves are in spec BEFORE you do the compression check.

The only tool you need to have to do a valve adjustment that differs from installing a license plate frame is a set of feeler gauges.

FilthPig

sweetdill has a good point...I think sokdo has another post saying his compression numbers were better after doing his valve adjustment.

I just did the plug and coil swaps first because they were easy...and then a compression test to see where to go next. So since I didn't have really good numbers I adjust the valves next and then test again.....I just hope that the valve adjustment works for me too. I'm thinking that since my problem also seems to be gradually getting worse the more I drive it that it may just be a valve adjustment is what is needed.

I want to have the valve cover gasket set in hand before i start though.....so to me there is a bit more needed than just some feeler gages and hammer.

unclefester

I'm getting something similar to this but i'm not recording any codes nor am i getting a CEL.

My symptoms are a hesitation / stutter especially when the engine ( and outside air temp) are cold. Once it has warmed up, the problem seems to go. It's almost like it will kangaroo if i don't do anything about it.

It only happens on light throttle and standing on the throttle pedal gets rid of it.

I've replaced the primary 02 sensor as the car has done 70k miles, that has improved economy. I've got a set of coilpacks on the way as i'm sure they could do with replacement.

Wondering what else it could be, it's the lack of error codes that is throwing me or has the problem just not got bad enough to register an error on the ECU.

edit:

Think i've fixed it, was clearing out the MAP sensor hole and noticed that the O ring that it sits against was bone dry and covered in dust. Coated it in silicone lubricant, put it back together - went for a good drive and all hesitation is gone. Can a cure really be that simple?

FilthPig

OK....I finally adjusted my valves....and it is FIXED....ABSOLUTELY 100% FOR SURE!!!! No rough idle....I mean silky smooth...no hesitations....no burbles at low rpm's.....no low idel with a/c on.......no nothing...right from the get go it was just like butter. I knew when I was adjusting the valves and found 3 tight exhaust valves that this was going to fix my misfires....and when I started it it was OBVIOUS right then that it was fixed. It just sounded and ran so much better. All the things I tried before.... and thought that maybe it was better....all hopeful illusions....wishful thinking. This time it's really fixed !!

Yes.....I wished I had done this first ......or even better yet... as part of regular maintenance at bout 10k miles and then again at 50k or somthing like that. Then I never would have had this problem and be contributing to this fine misfire thread...I guess my hope is I help others with this same prolem.

Anyway there were 3 exhaust valves that were absolutely tight...as in zero clearance!!! The 3 tight exhaust valves were on each of the same 3 cylinders that I had low compression numbers on. All intake valves were at high end of spec but okay....the only cylinder that was close to being in spec on all 4 valves was the one that had goood compression numbers....go figure.

So the exhaust valves on 3 cylinders were being held open....I was running on one good cylinder...maybe... The 3 exhaust valves that were tight took maybe 1/3 turn or more before the tension was released.....then it took another half turn or so to get a .010 shim in....so we're talking way out of spec.

So I'm sold.....valve adjustment should be the first thing you do...especially if you haven't done one in awhile..... or never have like me.

Anyway I adjusted all of them to spec...008 on intake and .010 on exhaust. It is incredibley easy and I am extremely glad I did it myself....I know it was done right and I know I can do it again as part of regular maintenance. Since it was so out of wack I plan to drive it a few thousand miles and then check them again.

AND I AM SO FREAKIN' GLAD IT WAS'T BENT VALVES!!!! I was so worried it was something someone did to it.... before I got it....overrev...anyway...sooooo glad it was just needing some normal adjustment.

FilthPig

So I've been on a couple drives now since adjusting the valves....one nice spin up into the local mountains. And no return of the CEL.... which is no surprise.... I knew it wouldn't return. It just rips now.... all thru the rev range.

This is one of those things that gradually got worse over a long period of time....so I didn't really notice how bad it actually was running. But now that the valves are adjusted it's like man....it was really running like crap...not just a little rough.... and now it's like brand new again....amazing.

One thing I'm not sure I mentioned during all this is my gas milage was way off too...I was only getting maybe 21-22 mpg and I used to get 27 mpg during daily driving. I expect that to return.

The info in this forum has been a huge help. If I had anything to do over it would be to adjust the valves initially after break in....say at 10k miles and then again every 40k to 50k after that.

Edit: I've went thru a couple tanks now...and as expected my gas milage is back to 27mpg...went 325 miles on a tank first time over 300 on tank in quite awhile. Still blows me away how much better it is running now.

LATEOTT

[QUOTE=FilthPig,Oct 9 2010, 04:13 PM]

So I'm sold.....valve adjustment should be the first thing you do...especially if you haven't done one in awhile..... or never have like me.