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Originally Posted by Reds2kracer,Apr 17 2009, 12:12 AM
Well, I'd took the S for a drive (60 miles) and the CEL hasn't been back (fingers crossed). I still hear that slight pop from my exhaust though, only at idle cuz you won't be able to hear it once the revs goes up. Any ideas?
The poping from the exhaust may be from a testpipe or high flow cat if you have one? I installed the Berk test pipe and got a poping sound on idle right after.
Add the engine vibration to that and you can see how it would cause a misfire condition intermittently.
Here's a thought, and while it may be way out there, could be a possible explanation.
I recently bought a used '00 from a dealer (about 13 days ago). CE light came on day 1. Read the codes, misfire in 1, 3, 4 and the multiple misfire. Hmm. Came online, researched, and since the tank was low, figured it could have been bad gas. Went to Shell, filled it up. After 4-5 cycles and about 50 mi, CE light went off.
3 days later... 2-3 bars left on the fuel gauge, CE light. Filled up again, CE light went off again after about 4-5 cycles and more miles.
3-4 days later... same thing. Low on gas, start the car up again... CE light. Fill it up... after about 2-3 cycles, off. (Quicker this time). It went off this past Wed. Thursday... drive to VA/WA for the weekend. Driving on the highway, etc... filled up about 3-4 times during the whole trip down, there, back, no light. Ok, maybe running it on the highway moved enough. Feeling good about things.
Yesterday... go to work, and on the way back, stop by local inspection place since I haven't been able to get it inspected without the CE light on (OBD-II CE light on will fail inspection). Park the car, go in to see if they have time to do my inspection. They do. Start the car back up, pull it into the garage, shut it off. He asks me to re-start the car for the inspection... CE LIGHT! GAHH! No inspection today. Guess what my fuel level was? 2-3 bars left.
They pulled the codes, same thing. 1-2-3-4/random. They reset the codes and I filled up this morning. Let's see if it comes on again shortly.
I'm going to go out on a limb and extrapolate the data and say my problem could be something wrong with the fuel system. Drove it 1000+ miles without any issues and then when I get home, low on fuel and a quick restart (or couple restarts) when warm, the light came on.
While I have your ear, and this is what I said in the beginning that this is the 'way out' theory... what do you think of bad engine mounts causing enough shake with the engine to rock the MAF and cause the codes upon starting the car? It always, ALWAYS comes on only when starting the car, not while driving it. Could a bad shake from starting, rocking in the mounts cause the MAF to go "WTF!" (extra vibrations at start) and give the codes?
I need to have a closer look at the mounts, but the weather has been less than cooperative. It could be a combination of MAF and injectors... MAF shake at start and clogged injectors pushing extra duty at start.... but it wouldn't surprise me that when the weather is good enough for me to examine them... that the mounts are shot.
Car has 150K miles on it, and I look forward to autoxing it.
Oh, while I'm here.... what's the right MM for the spark plug socket? I need to pull them out and have a look at them, but since they sit so far damn down in the engine... I need to get a thinner spark plug socket.
[QUOTE=IMP,May 5 2009, 08:09 AM]
Here's a thought, and while it may be way out there, could be a possible explanation.
I recently bought a used '00 from a dealer (about 13 days ago). CE light came on day 1. Read the codes, misfire in 1, 3, 4 and the multiple misfire. Hmm. Came online, researched, and since the tank was low, figured it could have been bad gas. Went to Shell, filled it up. After 4-5 cycles and about 50 mi, CE light went off.
3 days later... 2-3 bars left on the fuel gauge, CE light. Filled up again, CE light went off again after about 4-5 cycles and more miles.
3-4 days later... same thing. Low on gas, start the car up again... CE light. Fill it up... after about 2-3 cycles, off. (Quicker this time). It went off this past Wed. Thursday... drive to VA/WA for the weekend. Driving on the highway, etc... filled up about 3-4 times during the whole trip down, there, back, no light. Ok, maybe running it on the highway moved enough. Feeling good about things.
Yesterday... go to work, and on the way back, stop by local inspection place since I haven't been able to get it inspected without the CE light on (OBD-II CE light on will fail inspection). Park the car, go in to see if they have time to do my inspection. They do. Start the car back up, pull it into the garage, shut it off. He asks me to re-start the car for the inspection... CE LIGHT! GAHH! No inspection today. Guess what my fuel level was?
no, the filter didnt broke, its just that i cut it in half to see it from inside, just because im curious hehehe.
all that red bits are the sluge made it by the descomposed gasoline, cause i didnt use my car for about a year, it was in my garage all that time and i never put a fuel stabilizer on it.
you dont need to change your fuel pump if you dont want, mine was good, i just change it to install a better fuel pump, a Walbro 255lph
also is cheapest than the OEM, just cost me $125 on a local speed shop.
yes you need the fuel filter set and the filter strainer
my two cents:
on the fuel filter set you can buy any of these two, they give that part number to the first one for the S2000 and Accord 4Door 2002, Accord 4Door 1998-2001 and Accord 2Door 1998-2002.
but that fuel filter set have another part number, the second one, its the same fuel filter set with 2 part numbers, its because the accord was using this fuel filter set first than the S2000, the accord start to use this fuel filter set on 1998. so if you order the fuel filter set with the second part number its going to be cheaper because its for "Accord"
S2000 and Accord part #16010-S84-A01 - betwen $41 to $60 depends where you buy it
Accord (and S2000) part #16010-S4K-A00 - betwen $14 to $27 depends where you buy it
Definitely something to check...but your problem might be water in the fuel. Since water is heavier than gas, it will be at the bottom of your tank. As you get low on fuel, it may be sucking up some water as well. You might consider draining the tank and starting with fresh fuel.
If you think the fuel may be blocked like Bertin's, use an inline fuel pressure gauge to see if your fuel pressure is with in norms.
yes check your fuel pressure, thats what i did too, mine dropped to almost 0psi in hard acceleration. i decide to install a fuel pressure gauge because i have the Air/Fuel Ratio meter and i notice that it was going to lean on hard acceleration, so i install the fuel pressure gauge in the fuel rail, take a look at the pictures to see mi installation.
