Mitsubishi LSD oil for diff
Just as an FYI:
Another option is Bel Ray Gear Saver. It is available in a GL-5 90w at most motorcycle dealerships for $8-$10 a liter. I used it last season. I ran close to 20 autocross events without an issue. I just changed my diff fluid last weekend and decided to stick with Bel Ray.
Another option is Bel Ray Gear Saver. It is available in a GL-5 90w at most motorcycle dealerships for $8-$10 a liter. I used it last season. I ran close to 20 autocross events without an issue. I just changed my diff fluid last weekend and decided to stick with Bel Ray.
Originally Posted by ikeyballz,Nov 4 2008, 03:37 AM
k nvm, sorry just reread the posts. torsen diff it is..
what would be the difference from using this vs. the OEM honda one?
should be roughly the same quality, no?
what would be the difference from using this vs. the OEM honda one?
should be roughly the same quality, no?
To answer another question: there's no mention of sub-zero temperatures wrt this fluid. It's factory fill on the Evo so it must be ok in a wide variety of temps.
Update:
I've driven the car just over 4k miles since I put this fluid in. That includes 1 trackday at Thunderhill and 3 AutoXes, several canyon runs, and plenty of daily driving. I've had no problems (or weird noises) whatsoever.
I've driven the car just over 4k miles since I put this fluid in. That includes 1 trackday at Thunderhill and 3 AutoXes, several canyon runs, and plenty of daily driving. I've had no problems (or weird noises) whatsoever.
The failure mode of this diff for wear is just lots of metal particles. It will get get sloppier and sloppier with slightly less differentiation. This is what the Audi racers have seen for decades now. (The failure mode for breaking teeth has nothing to do with lubrication.)
I honestly have not seen a real "failure" even with 400 hp cars in severe launches. Torsen is that tough. If you look at the Torsen specs, you could run anything this side of cottonseed oil and it would work. But from what I have seen on the wear side, I do prefer a (revised) SAE 110 like LE: More peace of mind given the small fluid capacity and lack of cooling.
Run this for 15k cracknut, and we'll compare Blackstone numbers since we live in the same climate and have roughly the same use (Thill 3x, etc.).
I honestly have not seen a real "failure" even with 400 hp cars in severe launches. Torsen is that tough. If you look at the Torsen specs, you could run anything this side of cottonseed oil and it would work. But from what I have seen on the wear side, I do prefer a (revised) SAE 110 like LE: More peace of mind given the small fluid capacity and lack of cooling.
Run this for 15k cracknut, and we'll compare Blackstone numbers since we live in the same climate and have roughly the same use (Thill 3x, etc.).
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