Thanks professor.

How many miles with no CEL, cbender?

 

Andy, not that many, as the car's in the shop for the clutch/flywheel install. And then, it's going into the bodyshop to have a new front end installed (fixing the remarkably minor damage caused by my deer hit coming out of Turn 9 at Summit Point earlier this month). And then, there's Thanksgiving, so it's unlikely to get a lot of miles put on it for a few weeks. But I'll keep you posted.

 

OK MY BAD!!! I got the "it" mixed up.

cbender any clue on PRICE of this uinit? Is it cheaper than the Diablo one or is it in some way "better". From what I read this unit goes OUTSIDE the car. Not inside the drivers foot well correct? Thanks for the clarification.

 

Pink,

The URL for Caspers is:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/

I think both units are priced about the same. I went with Caspers b/c they actually make the unit, and I felt more confident working with them than with Diablo. And (on the basis of my experience thus far) that seems true. While the unit wasn't working correctly initially, they stood behind the product and kept working at it. It nows seems to function fine, although I've not put many miles on it.

And, yes, the Caspers unit mounts under the car, not in the footwell. I think (but I'm not sure) that the Diablo unit is similar. Esssentially, you splice the simulator into the same wiring harness that the connects to the rear O2 sensor. It takes a bit of patience and (to be sure you're getting the right wires) a multimeter. But it's not hard.

Good luck.

 

Just to make things easier, the sensor has four wires:

White: to relay box (12 volt +)
White: to heater control (12 volt +)
Gray: ground
Black: signal wire

The first white wire connects to the simulator's red wire going into the wiring harness. The gray wire connects to the simulator harness' tan wire. The black connects to the simulator harness' purple wire.

Zip tie the harness to your tranny. Plug in the pigtail unit. Check to see that the LED flashes for 10-15 minutes (to insure you've picked the correct white hot wire). If so, ziptie the pigtail unit to the harness.

Bingo, you're done.

You can leave the wires going into the rear sensor, if you want or cut them completely, although I'd leave an inch or two in case you ever decide you want to reconnect them.

 

Thanks for hanging in there cbender. I'm really glad it works.

Now....to find another test pipe.

 

Andy, what happened to the first one?

 

I sold it with my HKS because I bought an Apex single and thought it would be too loud.

 

Cbender need help. Which one do i order on caspers' site? how many do i need to buy?

 

Swtazn97: just call Justin at (847) 247-0484 and tell him I sent you. He'll insure you buy the right simulator. You only need one simulator, as it's the rear O2 sensor that tricks the MIL when you're running a straight pipe (and that's the ONLY thing the rear O2 sensor does). The front O2 sensor should be left alone, as that's used by the ECU in closed (i.e., adaptive) mode, among other things.