Need advice!...Check engine light with test pipe:
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 857
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From: Monterey, Bay Area
Cbender: can you give me some advice about turbocharging my s2k. swtazn97@aol.com Is it hard to maintain, lower compression? stuff like that. thanx
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: PDX
Swtazn, just do a search for "Speedcraft turbo". There's a HUGE amount of information already posted on this topic. There's also a kit by Stage 6 Motorsports, which is similar but slightly less expensive (the Stage 6 kit was designed by one of the people involved in the original Speedcraft kit). Bottom line: fuel tuning's the big issue (see my current thread on the topic in "Under the Hood"), but there's otherwise not a lot to maintain, and I'm happy with the kit. It's not cheap, though, particularly once you add upgraded exhaust and (inevitably) a new clutch. The power's tremendous.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: PDX
Simulator seems to working fine, although my car's been in the shop for the past ten days to have the pelt removed from the front bumper, courtesy of a deer at Turn 9 at Summit Point. But prior to taking it to the shop, it was working fine.
Anytime I can get away from work, bro. 
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: PDX
Lextracy,
Caspers produced an interim beta model with four wires. I seem to remember that the final version only had three -- a signal, a ground, and a positive wire. The fourth wire was intended to read the incoming signal from the sensor, but I don't think it was required by the final version.
What's important for the installation is for the positive wire to be attached to the correct positive lead (NOT the one that drives the heater, as it turns off after the exhaust gases get things hot).
But *call* Justin at Caspers. He's a good guy and he'll make sure you got the right unit and can talk to you about installation. Mine's worked flawlessly since early November when Justin sent me the latest (final, I think) version of the unit.
Gernby, my internet access is dog slow while I'm traveling, so I'd offer up the same suggestion -- just CALL Justin and he'll set you straight.
CB
Caspers produced an interim beta model with four wires. I seem to remember that the final version only had three -- a signal, a ground, and a positive wire. The fourth wire was intended to read the incoming signal from the sensor, but I don't think it was required by the final version.
What's important for the installation is for the positive wire to be attached to the correct positive lead (NOT the one that drives the heater, as it turns off after the exhaust gases get things hot).
But *call* Justin at Caspers. He's a good guy and he'll make sure you got the right unit and can talk to you about installation. Mine's worked flawlessly since early November when Justin sent me the latest (final, I think) version of the unit.
Gernby, my internet access is dog slow while I'm traveling, so I'd offer up the same suggestion -- just CALL Justin and he'll set you straight.
CB