[QUOTE]Originally posted by docofmind
[B]SO what if you want to use the test pipe for track events and want to go back to having a cat when done?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]

If you are only going to use it for track events, there really isn't any reason to have the simulator.

 

Some CEL's do trigger conservative engine algorythms, some don't (or so I'm led to believe). It just so happens that the error messages generated by the rear O2 sensor do not.

Lex, just CALL Justin. He'll make sure you get the right unit. Much easier that way and the call's toll free...

CB

 

I think the only errors that will cause the ECU to go into "conservative" mode are the ones that pertain to engine management (IAT, MAP, TAS, knock, etc.).

 

i just called justin and im returning my old unit to get the new one.. the part number is #104051 if anybody is looking for the right one

 

Good luck and enjoy, Lex. I mounted mine on the rear transmission brace (it's black) with zip ties. Seems reasonably protected from spray, and it's close to the rear O2 sensor bung on the test pipe.

 

There are few things to remember here. If you just pull the cat, you will set codes for "catalytic system inefficiency". When this code is set, the computer realizes, based on the rear O2 sensor readings, that the cat is not performing as it should. What the computer does to compensate is throw in extra fuel. It tries to heat up the cat to make it work correctly. It happens this way on ALL OBD-II vehicles. You will notice the car running overly rich and you will have poor fuel economy. Periodically, the OBD-II system does checks on the emissions systems, usually when cruising. So, if you pull your cat, the CEL may not immediately illuminate... It is the luck of the draw based on when the last emissions system check was complete successfully.

Also, all import cars do something called a "Heater Element Check". Basically, this is the computer looking for a load from the resistance across the heater element in the O2 sensor. Should the heater element go bad, you will set a "Heater Element" code. For us to simulate the load on that heater element, the O2 Simulator would be HUGE and get really really hot. So, we require that the O2 sensor remain. It does not necessarily have to be in the exhaust stream. Can be tied up under the car.

Hope that clears a few things up. The simulator is 3 wires. You supply a 12v+, a ground, and the third wire goes toward the PCM as the signal. The only wire you must cut is the signal coming from the rear sensor. The PCM will now receive the signal from the simulator. Someone earlier had asked about removing the cat then reinstalling in. Since the O2 Simulator gives the signal to the PCM, you can run with the cat or without. The simulator doesn't know the difference. The part number is 104051. BTW, this specific part is now verified as working on the NSX, CivicSi, and RSX.

Thank you all (ESPECIALLY Mr. Bender), for all the help you have given us. I have received several calls from individuals on this board. Some of you have our earlier models of the simulators. If you have ordered this from us, you can call me today. I can look up your invoice and send you an advanced replacement. For others, if you are interested, call me and mention this board and receive free shipping. Thank you all very much for your help. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me at justin@casperselectronics.com

Thanks again!
--Justin
Casper's Electronics
847.247.0484

 

Mr. Bender says, "you're most welcome." You all can buy me a beer some day....

 

I just installed my test pipe and O2 simulator. I found that it was easiest to just install the simulator inside the cockpit at the ECU. I just cut wire 15 (white / red) on ECU connector #3 to connect the signal wire, and powered it with an ACC lead. It seems to work great, but I haven't driven it enough to really know.

If I take it in to the dealer, I didn't want it to be obvious that I had disabled the O2 sensor, and I didn't want the wiring to corrode from the elements.

 

I don't think wire corrosion will be a problem, given how the unit's made, but you're right that it's probably easier to install inside the car. Therein lies one of the problems with being on the first wave -- everyone else discovers where the rocks are.