need help pulling tranny
more than clutch fork disengaged from pivot...I think it has to be all the way out.
I spent f'ing days on this, and the problem is it's not (in my opinion) well documented, and once you get the engine separated from the tranny by a couple of inches, the fork gets pinned into place and you can't get it out. You pretty much have to push the engine-tranny back together.
I spent f'ing days on this, and the problem is it's not (in my opinion) well documented, and once you get the engine separated from the tranny by a couple of inches, the fork gets pinned into place and you can't get it out. You pretty much have to push the engine-tranny back together.
I had problems getting mine back in due to the clutch fork, kept getting out of position, I could see that being the problem..
The clutch fork looks like a 2 pronged fork, you can only see the "handle" sticking out of the "front" of the part of the transmission you are pulling away from the clutch/engine.
The clutch fork looks like a 2 pronged fork, you can only see the "handle" sticking out of the "front" of the part of the transmission you are pulling away from the clutch/engine.
I was able to get at the top bolts without dropping the subframe. It was tedious and required patience, but doable.
In retrospect, dropping the subframe was easier.
If he's sure all the bolts are out....if he can get a good inch or three separation between the engine and tranny, but it seems somehow hung-up... it's definitely the fork.
In retrospect, dropping the subframe was easier.
If he's sure all the bolts are out....if he can get a good inch or three separation between the engine and tranny, but it seems somehow hung-up... it's definitely the fork.
Originally Posted by derko_06,Feb 17 2009, 10:47 PM
hmm ok well i will try doin this and let yal know how it goes. no i didnt drop the front subframe. do i need to? and why?
Does no one bother to buy the OEM shop manual before they start to take the car a part? You really should...http://www.helmsinc.com





