Need opinions
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From: Charleston
Need opinions
Ok, I have some time off coming up this Christmas and felt like spending a little bonding time with the S. Shes getting a comptech cai for Christmas and I figure why not go ahead and change all the fluids.
To this point, the car has always been serviced at Honda. All oem fluids, all oem filters.
1st. Oil: I want to switch the engine over to synthetics instead of dinojuice. At 65,000 miles, do you think it would be benificial or is it already past time to
switch? If it has been too long, whats the best brand of dinojuice for the F20C?
2nd. Oil Filters: What oil filters do you guys run? Which works best?
3rd. Tranny Fluid: From what I have read, the GM Tresomething seems to be the best. Opinions?
4th. Diff Fluid: .... which to run?
5th. Fuel Filter: ... again, which to run?
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Oil ................... If you have any leaks at this time, using synthetic may cause those leaks to get much worse. I use Mobil 1 10W30 in summer and 5W30 in winter.
Can't go wrong with the Honda PCX filter. I've been using the Purolator PURE ONE for years.
Unless you are experiencing shifting difficulties, no point in changing from what's been working for you. I've always used Honda MTF. Those who have switched to GMSM-FM have been satisfied while some have indicated that it doesn't last very long. However, those who say this have had some shifting issues before the switch.
Diff fluid ................... Most widely used so far has been Mobil 1 75W90, but LE 607 is becoming very popular in places that don't see much cold weather operation.
We have NO fuel filter. We do have a fuel "sock" on the end of the fuel pump pick-up. Unless you determine that your fuel pressure is inadequate, there is no need to mess with this. Changing it is not a simple task.
Can't go wrong with the Honda PCX filter. I've been using the Purolator PURE ONE for years.
Unless you are experiencing shifting difficulties, no point in changing from what's been working for you. I've always used Honda MTF. Those who have switched to GMSM-FM have been satisfied while some have indicated that it doesn't last very long. However, those who say this have had some shifting issues before the switch.
Diff fluid ................... Most widely used so far has been Mobil 1 75W90, but LE 607 is becoming very popular in places that don't see much cold weather operation.
We have NO fuel filter. We do have a fuel "sock" on the end of the fuel pump pick-up. Unless you determine that your fuel pressure is inadequate, there is no need to mess with this. Changing it is not a simple task.
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1) Run the correct amount of Auto-RX for 1500 miles with 5 new quarts of 10w-30 conventional oil (Supertech or Trop Artic Blend, both from Walmart) and a new oil filter. Rinse for 3000 miles using Supertech or Trop Artic Blend and a new filter. This should remove all of the buildup from conventional oils and should have some effect on preventing any seal leaks. This stuff seems to work quite well for the people over on Bobistheoilguy and I would have no hesistations on using it if I needed to.
If you were to run Mobil 1, I'd use their Extended Performance version over the regular Mobil 1. The Extended Performance seems to resist shearing a bit better than the regular M1, and has a more robust additive pack and greater detergency, well worth the extra $0.80/qt IMO. The 10w-30 would be the grade that I'd use, it should pump just fine even in the middle of the coldest SC winters.
I wouldn't overlook other oils though. Schaeffer's 7000 10w-30 Blend is also a good choice for less than $4/qt. I'm quite impressed with this oil, and so are the people over on Bobistheoilguy. Its suprising that they were able to blend an oil with roughly the same HT/HS as M1 EP (M1 EP is 3.21, Schaeffer's 10w-30 Blend is 3.16) by using mostly GrpII and GrpIII basestocks with a good dose of PAO in the mix. Yet, it performs just as well, if not better (doesn't have M1's high Iron problem) than Mobil 1 for less than what Mobil 1 costs. I certainly wouldn't overlook that oil.
Redline 10w-30 is also good for those who race their cars....this oil is quite controversial as its UOAs have always come back less than stellar...but it seems as though this oil tends to "wash" out the accumulated soft wear metals, thus, causing elevated wear metals to appear in the UOA when it really isn't wear. Same with the TBN...it drops very fast but supposedly, the oil still neutralizes acids very well at low TBNs. Schaeffer's actually has the same effect, it drops fast but retains itself very well but still neutralizes acids well at low TBNs.
2) Wix makes good filters for a low price. You can get'em for dirt cheap at filter1.com. I'd use it over the PureOne, some say that the Wix design is better than the PureOne and offers better flow, but I can't remember for sure.
3) GMSFM seems to work well, so I wouldn't hesistate using it. However, just keep in mind that if the fluid causes any damage to the transmission (highly doubt it), you're on your own as GM never tested the fluid in the Honda box. Amsoil MTF seems to be an alternative but its rather new and I've only known of one person that has used it.
4) Unless you are ordering other stuff from Amsoil, Mobil 1 75w-90 is probably the best deal you can get, over-the-counter. But if you order stuff from Amsoil (i.e. MTF), then their price for the Severe Gear 75w-90 is hard to beat at $6/qt plus shipping.
If you were to run Mobil 1, I'd use their Extended Performance version over the regular Mobil 1. The Extended Performance seems to resist shearing a bit better than the regular M1, and has a more robust additive pack and greater detergency, well worth the extra $0.80/qt IMO. The 10w-30 would be the grade that I'd use, it should pump just fine even in the middle of the coldest SC winters.
I wouldn't overlook other oils though. Schaeffer's 7000 10w-30 Blend is also a good choice for less than $4/qt. I'm quite impressed with this oil, and so are the people over on Bobistheoilguy. Its suprising that they were able to blend an oil with roughly the same HT/HS as M1 EP (M1 EP is 3.21, Schaeffer's 10w-30 Blend is 3.16) by using mostly GrpII and GrpIII basestocks with a good dose of PAO in the mix. Yet, it performs just as well, if not better (doesn't have M1's high Iron problem) than Mobil 1 for less than what Mobil 1 costs. I certainly wouldn't overlook that oil.
Redline 10w-30 is also good for those who race their cars....this oil is quite controversial as its UOAs have always come back less than stellar...but it seems as though this oil tends to "wash" out the accumulated soft wear metals, thus, causing elevated wear metals to appear in the UOA when it really isn't wear. Same with the TBN...it drops very fast but supposedly, the oil still neutralizes acids very well at low TBNs. Schaeffer's actually has the same effect, it drops fast but retains itself very well but still neutralizes acids well at low TBNs.
2) Wix makes good filters for a low price. You can get'em for dirt cheap at filter1.com. I'd use it over the PureOne, some say that the Wix design is better than the PureOne and offers better flow, but I can't remember for sure.
3) GMSFM seems to work well, so I wouldn't hesistate using it. However, just keep in mind that if the fluid causes any damage to the transmission (highly doubt it), you're on your own as GM never tested the fluid in the Honda box. Amsoil MTF seems to be an alternative but its rather new and I've only known of one person that has used it.
4) Unless you are ordering other stuff from Amsoil, Mobil 1 75w-90 is probably the best deal you can get, over-the-counter. But if you order stuff from Amsoil (i.e. MTF), then their price for the Severe Gear 75w-90 is hard to beat at $6/qt plus shipping.
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