Just did a clutch replacement in the past 2 months on my AP1. All OEM parts. Clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, release bearing. Resurfaced OEM flywheel.

Part of the reason why the price is high is because A) the OEM parts are expensive but absolutely worth it, and B) it's relatively more labor intensive to replace the clutch than many other applications. You can thank Honda for putting the engine so far back in the chassis for the added difficulty in removing the transmission

 

Just finished a clutch job. Local shop allowed me to bring my own parts, this was my shopping list from Majestic Honda.

The shop ended up ordering some a few more odds and ends like some of the bolts, which are supposed to be single use.

Labor for just the clutch was about $600, but my clutch hydraulics were also trashed so they also replaced the master, slave, and all clutch lines.

Total damage including the parts I provided was $1700 but the clutch pedal feels absolutely amazing now.

Product Number Description Quantity Unit Price Total Price
91006-PCX-008 BEARING, CLUTCH PILOT 1 $15.93 $15.93
21103-PCY-003 GUIDE, RELEASE BEARING 1 $30.91 $30.91
22810-PCY-003 BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE 1 $109.34 $109.34
22841-PR8-010 BOOT, RELEASE FORK 1 $24.10 $24.10
22200-PCX-055 DISK, FRICTION 1 $128.11 $128.11
22300-PCX-015 DISK, PRESSURE 1 $259.79 $259.79
08798-9002 GREASE, UREA 1 $8.95 $8.95
Subtotal $577.13
Sales Tax $0.00
Shipping Charge $42.35
Handling Charge $3.95
TOTAL $623.43

 

Hi. I just recently had a brand new all OEM kit installed in my supercharged AP1. Very impressed by the high quality and I noticed that the new PP I got was even lighter than the previous one the car came with. On the road the pedal feels smooth, soft, but not too soft, just right. It's got good bite and I am sure will hold up to the almost 400bhp power she's making for a long time.

I'd recommend the same kit to you. Very good quality from Honda, as expected especially for the legendary S2000

If I had more time to get a clutch and was willing to wait longer I may have gotten a Clutch Masters FX200 or Spec Stage 2 kit. They're pretty good too. I got good discounts on my OEM kit though so that was even more of a bonus than going with aftermarket.

 

Wow, okay, it's way more complicated than I imagined. I do like the original clutch, nothing wrong with it. Don't want a racing setup, as I just like driving the car, but sometimes racing stuff lasts longer than stock. What is the advantage to the AP1 flywheel? Does that just bolt on with no further modifications?

I also want some performance and handling improvements, but will do that after the clutch. I originally wanted to keep it stock, but why not have a bit more fun?

Thanks for the help.

 

Ap1 flywheel will bolt right in. As will any aftermarket flywheel. They all fit rhe same, ap1, ap2.

The advantage of lighter is quicker engine response to throttle inputs. It revs up faster, and revs down faster.

The potential downside is it can be harder for novice to take off from a stop. Also if you shift slow you'll loss a lot of revs between shifts.

So for performance feel of engine, lighter flywheel. For dd normal car feel, heavier.

 

It would be nice to try an AP1 or an AP2 with the AP1 flywheel before swapping. If you don't like the AP1 flywheel, you are going to have to pay someone to pull the tranny again. Or learn to gun the engine more during hard takeoffs. Like stopped on an upward slope, in heavy traffic.

 

I didn't notice that much difference in driving my AP1 vs. my wife's AP2. She drives my AP1 just fine too.

The AP1 is very driveable with its 13 or 14LB flywheel.

 

I have a stock AP2 and have driven a stock AP2 but with AP1 flywheel, it wasn't really noticeable. I have a freshly resurfaced AP1 flywheel ready to go but will likely go with something lighter, probably an 8lb, when it's time to do the clutch.

 

You are talking negative differences between the two? Or differences, in general?

Thanks!

 

I meant changes is the difficulty of taking off from a stop. Neither wants to bog or die any more than the other.

The 2.2 makes more torque...so...in that respect its a bit easier. But as related to the flywheel...no real difference in taking off from a stop.

As far as driveability differences:

The AP1 revs a little more freely because of the lighter flywheel.

The AP2's extra flywheel weight allows for slightly smoother shifting ESPECIALLY with the AC on.

FWIW...I noticed the same differences in driveability when I changed my TSX's stock 22LB flywheel to a 14LB K20 flywheel. The revs drop a little faster, so when the AC is on, the RPM sometimes drops fast enough that you feel a little lurch when you release the clutch into the next higher gear.