New Clutch
Originally Posted by B serious
I meant changes is the difficulty of taking off from a stop. Neither wants to bog or die any more than the other.
The 2.2 makes more torque...so...in that respect its a bit easier. But as related to the flywheel...no real difference in taking off from a stop.
As far as driveability differences:
The AP1 revs a little more freely because of the lighter flywheel.
The AP2's extra flywheel weight allows for slightly smoother shifting ESPECIALLY with the AC on.
FWIW...I noticed the same differences in driveability when I changed my TSX's stock 22LB flywheel to a 14LB K20 flywheel. The revs drop a little faster, so when the AC is on, the RPM sometimes drops fast enough that you feel a little lurch when you release the clutch into the next higher gear.
It was largely a seamless transition. No difficulty taking off from a stop, even on hills. All I noticed was I was shifting much faster. I adapted automatically. Didn't have to really think about it. I find it all a benefit.
Until...it got hot and I turned the AC on a lot. Then I noticed the above. Actually noticed it most on takeoff. It was like car became gutless. It wasn't a huge deal, as it was just when taking off, and all I had to do was turn it off for a sec until moving if I wanted to avoid. Fan would still blow cold during the time. I could have also just used a little more right foot.
I think it was actually a combo of heatsoak and the lighter flywheel one two punch, as sometimes I would barely notice anything and other times it would be significant.
In the end, glad I didn't go with the 8 lb.
They don't.
I would really just buy the clutch from a dealer.
Aftermarket Nachi bearings aren't NECESSARILY thr same as OEM.
The disk in the aftermarket kits is likely rebuilt from by using stamped parts from an old Honda disk core.
Those are educated guesses.
There's more complexity than you think....
Buy from a dealer if you're looking for the actual genuine Honda part.
Just buy it from Majestic Honda. They typcially have the lowest prices on OEM stuff. about 40% of what local dealers want for the same parts for me most times.
I bought my clutch from them when I replaced it a few years ago. The Pressure and Friction disks cost about $400 total. Throwout bearing was $110.
I bought my clutch from them when I replaced it a few years ago. The Pressure and Friction disks cost about $400 total. Throwout bearing was $110.
Just buy it from Majestic Honda. They typcially have the lowest prices on OEM stuff. about 40% of what local dealers want for the same parts for me most times.
I bought my clutch from them when I replaced it a few years ago. The Pressure and Friction disks cost about $400 total. Throwout bearing was $110.
I bought my clutch from them when I replaced it a few years ago. The Pressure and Friction disks cost about $400 total. Throwout bearing was $110.
The PP from majestic is like $400.
Disk is around $185.
Release and pilot bearing around $200
Guide is around $32
Its a hefty bill, that's for sure.
I've been re-using PP's now. I just finished an install with a used PP on one of my S2000's.
If I wasn't doing the work myself (I work for chicken wings and white claws)...I would be cautious with re-using anything. Labour is expensive, it seems. Apparently, this clutch job is seen as "difficult".
The PP from majestic is like $400.
Disk is around $185.
Release and pilot bearing around $200
Guide is around $32
Its a hefty bill, that's for sure.
I've been re-using PP's now. I just finished an install with a used PP on one of my S2000's.
If I wasn't doing the work myself (I work for chicken wings and white claws)...I would be cautious with re-using anything. Labour is expensive, it seems. Apparently, this clutch job is seen as "difficult".
Disk is around $185.
Release and pilot bearing around $200
Guide is around $32
Its a hefty bill, that's for sure.
I've been re-using PP's now. I just finished an install with a used PP on one of my S2000's.
If I wasn't doing the work myself (I work for chicken wings and white claws)...I would be cautious with re-using anything. Labour is expensive, it seems. Apparently, this clutch job is seen as "difficult".
I see now the pp is about $377 as you say so I guess I am glad mine failed when it did! lol
This is the sole reason I asked.
Like B said, my mechanic said this is a "difficult" clutch job w/ an "expensive clutch". I ordered the Clutch Masters w/ Nacho bearings from a sponsor on here, I was just curious when I found this thread.
OEM I couldn't find under $800, next would've been going with moddiction's kit.
It seems you dug up cheaper than I was able to find though, thanks for posting what you did.
Like B said, my mechanic said this is a "difficult" clutch job w/ an "expensive clutch". I ordered the Clutch Masters w/ Nacho bearings from a sponsor on here, I was just curious when I found this thread.
OEM I couldn't find under $800, next would've been going with moddiction's kit.
It seems you dug up cheaper than I was able to find though, thanks for posting what you did.
This is the sole reason I asked.
Like B said, my mechanic said this is a "difficult" clutch job w/ an "expensive clutch". I ordered the Clutch Masters w/ Nacho bearings from a sponsor on here, I was just curious when I found this thread.
OEM I couldn't find under $800, next would've been going with moddiction's kit.
It seems you dug up cheaper than I was able to find though, thanks for posting what you did.
Like B said, my mechanic said this is a "difficult" clutch job w/ an "expensive clutch". I ordered the Clutch Masters w/ Nacho bearings from a sponsor on here, I was just curious when I found this thread.
OEM I couldn't find under $800, next would've been going with moddiction's kit.
It seems you dug up cheaper than I was able to find though, thanks for posting what you did.
The receipt posted above was from 2016, bruv. Prices have risen since.
~$800 seems right for a factory clutch.
THMotorsports is a reputable vendor...and it seems they sold you some reputable parts. Lots of people like Clutchmasters. I'm sure it will work just fine.
S2000 clutch jobs are easier than 06+ Si's and 04+ TSX's I've done in the past.
BUT compared to like a 90's civic, its exponentially more difficult.
Idk what you're getting charged for labour. Perhaps get more than 1 quote, though.
Yeah I would say this is a "normal" difficulty clutch job for a RWD. The only thing "harder" than some is having to lower the subframe which is easy, just a bit more time consuming since you have to deal with moving a few things. People create a lot of scare about the starter bolts but those are actually cake if you look at it first and use the right extensions. And to do the clutch you can leave the bolt in the hole so you dont have to fish the one back in (which again is not hard if you just take a few minutes to look at it and use the right tools).
If you have never done a job this involved then yes, it may feel hard to you. But otherwise it is not bad even on jack stands in the garage if you are used to working on your own stuff and have the right tools. If all you have ever done is change oil or basic repairs, then yeah, you probably want some help from someone experienced.
I personally used a Cool Ranch bearing in mine
If you have never done a job this involved then yes, it may feel hard to you. But otherwise it is not bad even on jack stands in the garage if you are used to working on your own stuff and have the right tools. If all you have ever done is change oil or basic repairs, then yeah, you probably want some help from someone experienced.
I personally used a Cool Ranch bearing in mine











