Just got my S2000. Finally.

It’s an 01 and runs great. Luckily there’s a Honda specialist right down the road so I took it to him and flushed out diff and tranny fluid and it feels much better. The dealership I bought it from did an oil change when they got the car and it got driven once or twice before I claimed it. I don’t know if they did the 5.1qt like the manual, or topped to 5.9 like most I’ve read do.

I’ve read about Mobil1 burning fast, but I don’t know what oil they used. Anyway, I’ve been driving it like any new owner who’s been wanting this car since a kid would. VTEC on every drive, not redlining often, but pushing it. On the highway ramp I’ll exaggerate holding gear longer than needed just to listen to her sing.

I checked oil last night and it’s maybe at the first diamond or just below. It’s not my daily but any time it’s nice and skies are clear I take it to work (mostly Highway 75mph.) I know AP1’s burn more than AP2 and I want to keep this car as long as I can. Do I spend the extra money on Amsoil or regular auto shop “synthetic”? My local a Amsoil dealer quoted me around $90 for 6 quarts. Is that about what Amsoil costs?

 

I've heard the same about Mobil1 for ap1's, which sucks because I used to use Mobil1 in my Si all the time and it was great.

After doing research and talking to a few local s2k owners, I will be going with Amsoil 10w30 signature. I'm in Canada and I got quoted $90 CAD for 6 bottles for Amsoil 10w30.
From what I've read, no matter what oil you go with, F20's will burn oil. Some people have installed oil catch cans which help some what but I don't think that's a permanent solution.

Go for the premium choice and get Amsoil. Don't cheap out on this car.

 

You don't necessarily need to go to amsoil. Just try a different synthetic oil. I went to Pennzoil and that "fixed" my S' oil habitat.

 

There's no special requirement for oil.

Its spec'd to run on any synthetic or conventional 10W30 or 5W40, so don't overthink it.

If you choose 10W30, just remember....its thick asf on cold starts. Give it a few miles with moderate driving before you go nuts.

Pennzoil, Castrol, whatever off the shelf stuff will work. M1 has mixed reviews on any car.

I've had good luck with Pennzoil or Valvoline 0W40. Mine also did just fine with conventional 10W30. No huge difference since I really only drive the car between late spring and mid-fall.

The dealer likely used whatever was in their pumps when they changed your oil.

If you want to figure out if your car does actually burn oil, then have the oil changed. Take a photo of the level.

Drive and check periodically.

MAKE SURE you're checking on a fairly even surface like a garage slab or gas station slab. Driveways and parking lots are often not level.

 

"Most" overfill the crankcase with nearly 6 quarts of oil? Where are you getting this information? See your owners manual or page 2-4 of the Service Manual. Spoiler: the engine oil capacity with an oil change including filter is 5.1 (five decimal 1) US quarts. A rebuilt engine and filter will take 5.9 qts. Note that during an oil change nearly a quart of the old oil remains in the engine.

Oil level is correct anywhere in the marked range on the dipstick. Some engines will consume a bit of oil and the level stabilize in the middle of the range. Constantly refilling to the top of the scale just "burns" that oil too before the level stabilizes -- it's correct anywhere in the range.

AmsOil claims to cure cancer and COVID19 but is otherwise nothing special as far as the S2000. Honda MTF is recommend factory but there are others that work as well or better. Differential needs hypoid gear oil -- details in the Owner's Manual. It's available for download if yours is missing.

-- Chuck

 

Welcome!

Start here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/775...#entry18385384

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/102...replace-first/

 

Frequent oil changes are more important than brands. Most oil will burn or when you're above 8000RPM+ because engines arent perfect systems and the sheer temperature will deteriorate oil. Some of the track mitigate deterioration by using 10W-40 which holds its viscosity at higher temps compared to 10W-30. That being said, your intended function will dictate your oil viscosity and a DD will have different needs from a track car. If you're truly worried about your oil usage, get a Blackstone oil analysis performed.

 

ive read a couple threads where people said the manual was wrong and that it’s more like 5.5 and a couple said they tipped to 5.8-5.9qt.

 

When checking oil level always check both sides of stick, and whichever is lower is the correct level.

There is a tray in oil pan that can interfere with stick and cause an artificially high reading on that side.

Also, highly recommended to only use Honda oil filter (the S specific one, not the one every other Honda uses). Also, always torque filter per specs written on filter. Either torque with torque wrench or turn additional 7/8 of a turn after it first touches (torque wrench is more accurate).

Not torquing filter leaves it vulnerable to spinning loose and engine fire that destroys car, or at very least loss of pressure that destorys engine.

VTEC diverts oil flow to power it, so higher oil pressure than most engines, plus it revs to 9k, so higher still. Much easier for filter to spin loose than on other cars.