o2 sensor causing misfire?
Update: Last week I performed a map whack and that didn't do the trick, so I decided to actually clean the MAP sensor and after a week of driving the car, the car does not hit a soft limiter at high rpm. However, the car still has an exhaust misfire (according to what my mechanic said) when cruising. I don't know why this type of misfire came back after driving the car for a week without having any misfires. I really think the stock ecu is unhappy with the greddy's tune. Anyhow, the misfire does not occur at WOT which is what I wanted to get rid of, and I did. I'll get a walboro fuel pump 255l next and see what happens.
Hey dees, just to help these guys help you, you should mention that you have a piggy back tune in your first post, that really changes a lot. And also what year you drive, plus the mileage.
If I were you, I'd go buy a cheap scanner, a one trick pony that reads and clears codes. I've had mine for 4 years now... It was 29$
For now, remove the piggy back tune.
Read, write down and clear codes with your new scanner.
Then you'll start from scratch. If something is truly, mechanically wrong with your motor, you'll have at least eliminated the piggy back from the equation.
Do that and them get back with us once a code returns, or you start misfiring again.
A flashing cel can indicate catastrophic motor damage, so don't let it get to that and keep driving.
If I were you, I'd go buy a cheap scanner, a one trick pony that reads and clears codes. I've had mine for 4 years now... It was 29$
For now, remove the piggy back tune.
Read, write down and clear codes with your new scanner.
Then you'll start from scratch. If something is truly, mechanically wrong with your motor, you'll have at least eliminated the piggy back from the equation.
Do that and them get back with us once a code returns, or you start misfiring again.
A flashing cel can indicate catastrophic motor damage, so don't let it get to that and keep driving.
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