S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

OEM Hardtop latch screw spinning issue

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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #11  
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If you get it removed and you need to replace the threaded insert ( pop nut , rivsert, threadsert, whatever they call them), then you need to drill out a wider hole that is the same diameter as the new threaded insert. The insert will have the same thread to accept the factory bolt if you buy it from Honda , it is listed in the parts diagram listing for the hardtop shell, or you can buy them in the aftermarket and you can order them to fit the oem bolt size. In the Honda hardtop parts menu the call the threaded insert a pop nut, you can see it in the online menu at majestichonda.com or any other Honda on line parts diagram.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #12  
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If you get it removed and you need to replace the threaded insert ( pop nut , rivsert, threadsert, whatever they call them), then you need to drill out a wider hole that is the same diameter as the new threaded insert. The insert will have the same thread to accept the factory bolt if you buy it from Honda , it is listed in the parts diagram listing for the hardtop shell, or you can buy them in the aftermarket and you can order them to fit the oem bolt size. In the Honda hardtop parts menu the call the threaded insert a pop nut, you can see it in the online menu at majestichonda.com or any other Honda on line parts diagram.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 01:02 PM
  #13  
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I had the same issue on mine. I used a very small drill bit and drilled into the nut through the hardtop shell, about 1/4" away from the screw, then intentionally broke the drill bit in that hole so that stopped the nut from spinning freely. I then removed screw with a vice-grip.
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 08:38 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by zeroptzero
If you get it removed and you need to replace the threaded insert ( pop nut , rivsert, threadsert, whatever they call them), then you need to drill out a wider hole that is the same diameter as the new threaded insert. The insert will have the same thread to accept the factory bolt if you buy it from Honda , it is listed in the parts diagram listing for the hardtop shell, or you can buy them in the aftermarket and you can order them to fit the oem bolt size. In the Honda hardtop parts menu the call the threaded insert a pop nut, you can see it in the online menu at majestichonda.com or any other Honda on line parts diagram.
is the Honda pop nut exactly like those river nuts? That use a tool to compress the back end to essentially sandwich itself from the inside of the hardtop and outside, like a rivet? What tool is used with the pop nut?
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 05:43 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by SOL1D
is the Honda pop nut exactly like those river nuts? That use a tool to compress the back end to essentially sandwich itself from the inside of the hardtop and outside, like a rivet? What tool is used with the pop nut?
Yes pretty much the same thing, the worst part is that you need to buy the installation tool, a bit expensive just to use one time unless you can find someone to lend you a tool. I used a home-made tool to install it on my hardtop and it worked fine.
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by zeroptzero
Yes pretty much the same thing, the worst part is that you need to buy the installation tool, a bit expensive just to use one time unless you can find someone to lend you a tool. I used a home-made tool to install it on my hardtop and it worked fine.
home made tool? How did that work?
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 04:00 AM
  #17  
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Since the rev nut tool is basically a bolt that threads into the insert, then pulls on it as you squeeze the handle to compress the insert into a sort of rivet, couldn't you just thread an actual bolt into the insert, and just keep tightening it until it 'rivets' the insert?

That would compress the rivet more slowly, but otherwise mimic what the tool does.
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 03:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
Since the rev nut tool is basically a bolt that threads into the insert, then pulls on it as you squeeze the handle to compress the insert into a sort of rivet, couldn't you just thread an actual bolt into the insert, and just keep tightening it until it 'rivets' the insert?

That would compress the rivet more slowly, but otherwise mimic what the tool does.
Pretty much it, we used a longer bolt with a thick spacer nut and a couple of washers to reduce friction, I maintained downward pressure on the spacer nut, and when the bolt bottomed out it started to compress the rivnut insert until fully tight. Worked pretty good for a ghetto tool. The real tools are pretty expensive to buy for just one repair.

OP I pm'd you some pictures of my tool and inserts I used.
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
Since the rev nut tool is basically a bolt that threads into the insert, then pulls on it as you squeeze the handle to compress the insert into a sort of rivet, couldn't you just thread an actual bolt into the insert, and just keep tightening it until it 'rivets' the insert?

That would compress the rivet more slowly, but otherwise mimic what the tool does.
This option should work but there may be a chance that the new rivnut will spin while trying to compress and possibly wear or weaken the mounting point. The proper rivnut tool works like a pop rivet gun and compresses the rivnut towards the tool without spinning it.
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